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| The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
| Blue Ridge Spa |
I have a Blue Ridge spa that has been wired for 220(240v). It has a horizontal flow through heater and three relays in the box. There are two pumps and they are controlled by two air switches. There is also one light, a pressure switch, a High limit switch, and a contactor. I can not figure out how to get the contactor to drop (110v through the coil). When I got it the wires were not connected to the Contactor for the coil.
This is what I have now: When I turn on the breaker the circulation pump turns on as do the lights but not the heater or the jets. I know that the contactor is getting 220v and if i push the contactor down it gets 220v at the heater. But I don’t know what wire to put to the coil to get it to drop (neutral and ?? for 110v or if it is 220v then ?? and ??)
1. If I have a 220v contactor do I have to have 220v going through the coil for it to trip?
2. Is it normal for only the circulation pump to run if the control panel is showing that the spa needs heat? (Air Switch not activating second pump and jets)?
3. Does anyone have a schematic for this spa that has three relays and not a control board?
4. If I hold down the contactor should the casing for the heater get warm? (How do I know the heater is working?)
Thanks for all the help Ron |
| Posted by on 2008-12-08 18:48:27. (15480) |
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Re: Blue Ridge Spa
You can have a 2 or 3 pole contactor with either a 110 or 220 coil. If it's 110 you should have neutral + 110v coming from your safety circuit (pressure switch, high limit, etc.). If it's 220 you should have a constant 110v line that is the opposite phase of your safety circuit line.
The circ pump operation sounds normal.
I haven't found anyone that has diagrams for pneumatic blue ridge packs.
The tube might get noticeably warm, but it's still relative to the current water temp. If you know the heater is getting 220v and the resistance on the element is ok (~10 ohms), it should be working. You could also check the amp draw with it on. |
| Posted by on 2008-12-08 21:55:15. (15482) |
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Re: Blue Ridge Spa
I was able to overide the contactor and le the heater run for about six hours. The water temp was good but I didnt want to press my luck. I can not find out how to get all of the components working properly with the pump. All I get is the heater light on. Even when I do not try to bypass the heater. I need to get this working before christmas. The good news is this:
1. the heater works
2. The pumps work, although not like they should
3. The pressure switch and the high limit switch work
4. timer works
How do I check the thermostat from the top controlls? How do I find out how to wire this thing?? I feel so helpless.
Please help |
| Posted by on 2008-12-11 21:20:02. (15513) |
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Re: Blue Ridge Spa
If you can find the thermostat wire coming from the control, it should open and close to neutral as you turn it to either side of the water temperature. |
| Posted by on 2008-12-12 08:53:26. (15520) |
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Re: Blue Ridge Spa
I'm assuming you have the 2000 series 04 pack.
I have a owners manual with wiring schematic (as good as it is any ways) that I can see if I can get my scanner working and email you a copy.
From what I can gather it does have a couple of miss prints, but the basics seam to be ok.
Since you have a 220v pack is there any way you can get me a picture of the main 3 wire terminal block off yours. I got one, but I feel that the wiring is wrong at this point and need to verify the schematic as this is where one of the miss prints is.
You can email me at
bjsickler@sbcglobal.net
Thanks |
| Posted by on 2009-01-04 20:30:49. (15642) |
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| | | The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
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