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| Help Please, Save me from my wife! Pinnacle Systems Spa Pack ? |
I first want to say hi to everyone!
I hope I have come to the right place " title="Wink" />
I bought my wife a Hot Tub used from someone about 1.5 yrs ago....well I just got around to hooking it up ops:" title="Embarassed" />
My poor wife has been waiting patiently for it and now that I have it in place,
framed in and all wired up....it aint working.
Well inside the Spa Pack the last owner did some custom wiring.
It appears the plumbed in a Heat Exchanger to their home heating and bypassed the heater tube as the wires don't go to anything, just sitting there.
So, is there a wiring diagram available?
I don't know how old this is, and can provide plenty of pics.
Here is what was on the spa pack
Pinnacle Systems
Model# 26-20-D2B0A1A4A
Serial# 9709290002
240v/40A/5500W
Any help would GREATLY be appreciated!!!!!
Thank you,
Jeff |
| Posted by on 2006-08-18 19:29:31. (6681) |
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Not gonna find that anywhere I believe. You need to post some photos of the guts of this thing. |
| Posted by on 2006-08-18 19:41:45. Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region (6682) |
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anyone " title="Crying or Very sad" />
I know its not a super active forum, I didn't expect a quick reply.
But a bump for me incase someone missed it " title="Wink" /> |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 10:50:27. (6686) |
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a brett aqualine em 102 is very similar, and the schematic might be of some assistance to you. You can find the schematic on http://www.alliedinnovations.com. |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 13:47:40. Albert Lea, MN (6689) |
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THank you!
I will go look right now.
I actually just came in from fiddling with it and I got the BOSS pump running
and water flowing through half the tub. So I at least I am getting somewhere.
The blower doesn't seem to do squat? There is 110v at the connector and switches on and off the current with the air switch. But when the blower is connected, I get nothing out of it. So I am thinking that is bad.
I had unplugged all the components and reintroduced them 1 by 1. There is a big 4hp pump sitting right behind the spa pack and connects to the JETS connector. When that one is plugged in, the spa pack humms and blows the fuse. So I believe I have a bad pump too....uhg.
I checked the heater element and there is 10 ohms between the two heater wires. So once I know where they go I think the heater is OK. Fingers crossed.
So what I think is:
-Blower motor is shot
-Pump behind spa pack is shot
Would you guy agree? Is there a way to test it out? ohm'n it or something?
Im no electrical major and Just have some basic knowledge here.
Oh, and does someone know what that motor thing is that I have a pic of above? That has bare wires that needs a home.
Thanks !
Jeff |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 15:51:01. (6690) |
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do you have 120V to the spa, or 240V? The 4hp pump will be 240V and if it's only gettnig 120V, it will just hum. The blower may operate much in the same manner. If either happens to be 120V (which I doubt), you can test by plugging it into an outlet. You would, of course, need to make a cord with clips to hook into the connector on the motors. |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 16:38:37. Albert Lea, MN (6691) |
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obviously that's not the original equipment that came with that shell.
The wire that doesn't have a plug in it........That's a motorized diverter valve. It sends water in different directions when activated. Thus only certain jets will work unless you have a way to turn it. Also there is a missing knob for a manual diverter on top of the spa. The Control box doesn't have a way to make the motor work.. Your going to need these things to work. You might want to also remove the motor and buy a extension shaft and knob so you could move the valve by hand. You will have to cut a hole in the shell to do this. I would cut the U shape completely out of the plumbing. You need to make sure the check valve in the bottom of the filter can is functional. Looks like the cold pins on the heater are leaking....looks rusty in the pic. Check the amp plug for the blower for correct voltage when activated with a voltage meter.. Do the same for the pumps. The control box has had the heater disconnected. Also looks like the case of the motor in one pic is loose.....not sure. Bus bar for the main service wires had been removed thus a hanging ground. Heater contactor is where the black wire is hanging. " title="Shocked" /> |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 17:12:28. (6692) |
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Thanks for the replies!
Here is what I know/have found out.
Its a 220v system.
1) The blower motor is junk. I opened it up and its falling apart.
Also its a 110v blower. The Ultra 9000 1hp model.
Should I replace it with the same 1hp? or 1.5 or 2hp?
I see the more jets the more hp it requires.
2) The 4hp will be coming out tomorrow as the tub is draining.
Its a 2 speed and am pretty sure 220v.
There is 220v coming out of the connector on the spa pack.
So this pump or wet head? i guess its called my have issues.
I will investage that tomorrow.
3) Yep the adjustment knob on the top is missing, but does move as I tried it with pliers and it adjusted between the feet jets and back jets. To level them off. So that works, just need a hande or new assembly.
4)The Cold pins are not leaking from what I can tell as it had water in the tub for a day or so and nothing seems to leak...wooohooo!
Just some condensation from the cold well water and no heater yet.
5)Thanks for the info on the diverter valve. I will look further into that!
And the U Bend will come out.
6)Recap on my new questions.
a) Where do the 2 blue heater wires connect in there? Since they had it bypassed/just hanging!
b)What should I replace the blower with? larger HP or stay with 1hp
c) quote"Bus bar for the main service wires had been removed thus a hanging ground. Heater contactor is where the black wire is hanging"
I am not sure what all that means...lol
What do I need to do with the green / black wires?
Thank you guys...much appreciated!
Jeff |
| Posted by on 2006-08-20 21:33:58. (6696) |
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" title="Very Happy" /> The heater wires hook up to the big contactors This is what you do. After you replace your pumps and blower.
Remove the black wire.
Turn the spa on and turn the thermostat up. With your volt meter check the voltage between A and B. If you have 220 v turn the thermostat down. You should hear a click. Recheck the voltage between A and B. If you have 0 volts then put one heater wire on A and the other on B. Looks to me like that should do it. if you dont get 220v and zero between the two then write back.
You can bundle the green ground with and other green grounds. I would also run bond wire from the pump motors to the control box. look for ground lug on the motors.
Also please make sure you installed a GFCI in line.
You may have to swap the pump plugs around. It's hard to tell from the picture. Normally pump 2 is a one speed booster pump. Pump one or jets would be the 2 speed pump.
If you think the pump and blower are the Original parts that came with the spa then change them verbatim. Looks like both are 220v looking at C. You can check the voltage at each plug to make sure before you order any parts or plug any thing into them. Same for the blower.
Don't forget to remove the U plumbing.......it will increase the flow capacity.
Good Luck
Don't kill yourself.
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| Posted by on 2006-08-21 02:16:43. (6698) |
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Thank you very much for your assistance.
My wife and I GREATLY appreciate this!
I will report back my findings.
" title="Wink" />
oh ps
The blower is def. a 110v blower
This is a pic I took when I first got it.
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| Posted by on 2006-08-21 05:46:05. (6699) |
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Ok, looking better.
The 2 speed pump is A O K now! woooohoooo
Was siezed up from sitting around. Got it loosened up and moves
smooooooooooooth!
So when the jet button is off, it runs slow which must be a circulator?
Hit the jet button and it speeds up. Just as I would expect.
So both pumps work great now.
The air blower will be replaced this week, so that is all set now.
That diverter valve, I found out how it was wired in the spa pack before. And reconnected it back in as it was. When I click on the blower, that diverter thing has a fan and I hear it turn on. So, I think it may be all set for now.
Will look into that more later.
So that brings me to the heater.
I measured across that A and B you posted and I don't get 220v at any point.
There is some things I need to try to explain here.
If I set the thermostat up, I didn't hear the click in the spa pack, just the thermostat had a faint click when it turned to heat status.
So, I adjusted that heater knob on the front of the spa pack all the way down to minimum and flicked the rocker switch to Thermostat Mode and now with the thermostat up top I hear the audible click down below. Which is what I would expect setting it into thermostat mode as you can see.
So....
Still no 220v at A and B with it CLICKED on.
This is with my meter with on probe on A and the other on B.
Any ideas?
I included an old photo i had of the front panel for reference on my heater setting I was stating.
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| Posted by on 2006-08-21 22:28:06. (6713) |
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Had a little brain storming over night.
Would I get 220v at those 2 terminals A&B for the heater with no water in the
tub and no water flow?
I didn't know if there was a (pressure switch/flow sensor) that checks those to prevent the heater from overrunning?
If so, then I will filler back up and reperform my 220v check.
Thanks
~Jeff |
| Posted by on 2006-08-22 06:57:23. (6715) |
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Yes there is a pressure switch so water must be flowing. It's the small switch on the right side of the heater manifold. Another clue to make sure where the heater wires go is from the front panel. Look at the heater on light ? Follow the two wires from that light to the terminals where they hook up. Normally they will hook up to the contactors at the same place the two blue heater wires hook up. Sometimes............ ? Also one of the heater legs may be fused down where you removed the fuses ? It's hard to tell......? Short of the you may have to contact pinnacle for a schematic or maybe the one Charger sent you to will work.
I didn't think of the blower being turbo charged so it makes sense that the motorized diverter valve hooks up to the blower circuit.
Keep the mode switch in heater mode and set the timer for 4 hrs am and 4 hrs pm. If you have an ozone unit you may want to change it
Good luck
Pork |
| Posted by on 2006-08-22 15:57:34. (6718) |
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You guys may have just saved a married!
Got 220v at the heater contacts!!!!!
The pumps are flowing
Was at 57 Degrees 15 min ago (well water )
Up to 60....I will keep you posted.
MUCH APPRECIATED ALL
You have no idea how happy I am. " title="Wink" />
When the Mrs. gets home from work tonight she will be ecstatic! |
| Posted by on 2006-08-22 18:01:31. (6721) |
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