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Hot Springs Hot Spot Model Z

I have a Hot Springs 'Hot Spot RE', Model Z, circa 1999 tho suspect it is an earlier model. The tub was beginning to continuously run, creating some high utility bills, so in my estimation the circuit board had gone bad. When I looked at it, there was a lot of corrosion at the heating element contact points as well.

So, I acquired a new board and replaced it. The old part neumber was a Gecko SSPA-1-121 and the new part is a Gecko SSPA-1-121-01. The board looks almost the same, with some slight variations in the contacts. I followed the old plug pattern based on the numbers on the circuit board and the power would come on, the motor would start turning, the LED readout would report what appeared to be a correct current temp of the water... I thought I was in. But after several hours, no heat, and the LEDS were bouncing. I could not control the off/low/high jets as I was in the prior circuit board.

Called a tech from where I purchased the unit. He came and did a quick check of the board, said it was good, and changed a couple of connections and a couple of other things. Took meter readings and said the unit was working, was heating, the only thing was the up and down temp settings appeared backwards. But in his short visit, which he amazingly didn't charge me for, felt things were working.

Unit heated up faster than I've seen it before so I thought that was good. But, I cannot control the unit from the top panel, the LEDs are not reporting anything, and the unit did not stop at 102 degrees or anywhere near, proceeding to run up to 110 degrees before I shut it down.

I will call the service dept back, but I wanted to take a pass at it here as well. First, is this SPPA-1-121-01 an appropriate replacement for this unit? I have tried contacting the manufacturer for anything that can tell me, supply me with, and they have not returned emails (grrrr). The tech determined the replacement pack was installed properly except for some reconnection of wires, and the unit was good.

Help anyone? I'd be willing to replace the top panel to match the Gecko board if that's what it takes. The motor and heating element work fine and brought the tub up to temp in a little more than 1/2 the time as the original unit. I just can't get it to work with the top panel of LEDs and 4 buttons (cycle the motor from off/low/high, light in the tub, and up/down temp settings).

I have photos of every aspect of the old board, from wiring and connections and schematic on the inside panel, to the new pack too.

Help?

regards, david

Posted by on 2007-07-31 16:00:27. (10513)
Additionally...

In looking at the situation further, and I have no idea if this is a possibility, but I believe this Gecko unit is designed to heat to 102 degrees. Our prior unit would heat to 104 if it was unplugged and plugged back in without touching it.

Would it be possible to just let the device connect to the heat sensor, and run an external cable to a simple switch that would signal the board to run the motor in the off/low/high position? That is all that is really needed. The LED panel is really unnecessary based on how I have used it in the past. The only thing I've needed is the motor switch. Otherwise, the device would heat the water to temp, then only come on to keep the temp at a certain level, or when it is run at low of high flow.

Might this be a possibility (means disconnecting the top panel and replacing it with a simple switch?

Dunno... just occurred to me. When left alone now the hot tub maintains a temp level as long as none of the top panel buttons are not pressed. If the top panel buttons are pressed, that;s when things start going haywire.

Help anyone?

Posted by on 2007-08-01 01:30:17. (10514)
Help anyone?

Help?

Posted by on 2007-08-03 03:04:02. (10523)

Not possible- as soon as there's a communication error between the topside and control box-stops working.

What's the serial number, and where did you aquire the new PCB? If it's from Watkins, what's the part number?

Posted by on 2007-08-03 09:18:49. SW Florida (10524)

Thank you for the response.

You're not going to like the answer... Ebay. The pertinent information is:

The Hottub is Hot Springs Hot Spot RE, Model number Z. The original 'pack' is a Gecko SSPA-1-121. The replacement is a Gecko SSPA-1-121-01.

It acts like it wants to work. I plug it in and the unit will auto heat to approx 104. As long as I don't touch anything. The LED will report what appears to be current water temp and that seems accurate. Pressing the buttons on the top-side box, and things degrade. A tech came replugged some things, placed a meter on it and said it appeared to be ok. But later in the day, nope.

It appears that this particular pack is working, but communication is not right for this top side control panel. It was working before I replaced the Gecko box, but the reason for replacing it was the tube and connections were so badly corroded, and the unit was wanting to run almost constantly, we were getting some high electrical bills. I will say one things for this replacement pack... it appears far more efficient, heats up the water much faster, keeps it there, and hardly runs. That is of course, nice. Problem is, I can't control it... sigh.

I appreciate your responses. Will brace for your next judgement. And great site by the way. I wish I had found this place first and of course may still go towards some business anyway....

regards


Quote:

Not possible- as soon as there's a communication error between the topside and control box-stops working.

What's the serial number, and where did you aquire the new PCB? If it's from Watkins, what's the part number?

Posted by on 2007-08-03 16:22:07. (10528)

New development... after fussing with the pack again, I accidentally bumped the pack and simultaneously noticed the overhead panel reset. Interesting I thought. So proceeded to 'bump' via flicking my finger against the plastic casing of the pack and found I could get the LEDs to go into this reset with consistency. This is consistent with when the motor kicks on and the same thing happens. The unit resets.

Leads me to believe that vibration is causing something in the pack to reset. I have reseated all of the plugs and bolt/screw/electrical. But cannot isolated what or where on the board is the problem. But it is definitely a vibration thing. Not knowing a lot about these kinds of electronics, is a relay this subject to jarring? There is no question the top panel and the heat sensor are reporting properly...

Thoughts?


Quote:

Not possible- as soon as there's a communication error between the topside and control box-stops working.

What's the serial number, and where did you aquire the new PCB? If it's from Watkins, what's the part number?

Posted by on 2007-08-06 19:16:44. (10538)

I'd send the PCB back to the E-bay seller, and have them send a warranty replacement. Something not right. Bumping shouldn't have any effect.

Posted by on 2007-08-08 08:39:07. SW Florida (10547)

Thank you for the response. Am working this idea now, yes. You're right, bumping it should not have an effect. Definitely is a vibration thing tho.

By chance, would you know a proper replacement box for this? I am not 100% certain this is the correct replacement part. All the info is posted above... if you have a sec. thank you

Quote:

I'd send the PCB back to the E-bay seller, and have them send a warranty replacement. Something not right. Bumping shouldn't have any effect.

Posted by on 2007-08-08 15:30:30. (10549)

Sorry, I only get replacement parts such as those from the Spa manufacturer.

Posted by on 2007-08-10 09:33:11. SW Florida (10600)
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