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| Ideas on removing old pipe fittings. |
Hi,
I am helping my son repair a hot tub that was left at a house he purchased. We think it is a Hercules. It seems to be in OK shape but needs a new controller pack. I have a question about redoing the plumbing for the new controller pack. The old one sensed the water temp on the heater itself, so I need to add a thermowell to the spa some where. I noticed 2 main types, one that goes through the shell, and the other is a 90 degree elbow that has 2 spots for the therm sensors. Attached is a pic of the plumbing that was on the exit side of the heater. The old pack had a 18 in heater on it, so I will have to redo the plumbing on the exit side anyhow. The current setup used 2 45s to transition into the slider valve. Would a 90 degree fitting be OK here, or would that add to much restriction? If a 90 degree fitting would be OK, I could add one that has the thermowell's in it. If we should stick to 2 45s, are there any other options for putting a thermowell in, besides a through the spa unit?
Also, what is the best way to get old fitttings off. I am hoping that I can get the 45 degree fitting off that is attached to the stub coming out of the slider valve, so I can attach the new stuff to it. My thought was to use a dremel tool and try cutting through the 45 fitting in several places, but not much into the pipe underneath and then try and chip and/or break the 45 fitting off of the pipe. I am not sure how well that will work however. Would it be better to cut off the 45 close to the slide valve and try to get the remaining pipe out from inside of the slide valve?
How common are the pieces for the slider valves? One option might be to try and get just an end to the slider valve and plumb from that point. I am not sure if one could purchase just that piece though, or if I would have to purchase a complete slide valve. I haven't checked behind the slider valve, but hopefully some where not much further back there would be a section of regular pipe long enough to join to if we have to replace the slider valve also.
Also we think the garden hose hookup is the drain for the tub, allthough it seems odd that it is pointed up instead of down. Pointed down would allow for more water to drain out if it is a drain, but you wouldn't have room for a valve. Would it be better to replace that piece with another one and point the drain down and put a plug in, or just leave the valve in it like it is? The tub is on a deck,so we might could run a pipe down under the deck and have a valve there to drain Perhaps tubs don't get drained completly empty most of the time though and the way it is would be OK.
Thanks for any help in advance. |
| Posted by on 2007-10-12 13:16:10. Central NC (11151) |
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Hi Pageup,
Thanks for the info.
I will have to replumb anyhow though, the old heater was 18 inches long. I think most of the new ones are 15 or less.
Take Care |
| Posted by on 2007-10-13 00:21:26. Central NC (11157) |
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Try moving the pump over.
It's definitely easier if you can get away with it. |
| Posted by on 2007-10-13 01:48:09. Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region (11158) |
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Looks like we won't be able to move the pump over.
http://spapartsnet.com/Spa-Packs-Contro... 2_3_1.html
Looks like that is one that would be a replacement for our unit, since that is one that controls a main pump, second pump, blower and ozonator. All others say they control a second pump OR a blower. The decsciption also states it replaces a Hercules Compu-Sybaritic Spa Control System which is what we had. That is really good. There may still be a difference of heater length. The one that was in the spa was an 18 inch unit.
Do you know if this unit also senses the temp on heater itself and doesn't need a thermowell?
How well does that work? I know the controller pack we pulled out, the copper things that were against the heater were corroded some. We are not sure how old the heater was though.
Pageup, Do you know what the warranty is on those units?
We are considering this unit
http://www.myspasupply.com/products/spa-pack-digital
It has a 5 year warranty and is only $379 with power cords and including shipping. It does have to have a thermowell however.
If we replaced the 2 45s on the on the outlet side of the pump with a 90 degree fitting with a thermowell, would it cause to much of a restriction?
Getting a thermowell in this system somewhere is the only holdback from using the lower priced spa pack.
I did find information about a PVC Ram Bit, for removing pipe from fittings. That would allow us to change the plumbing configuration if we need to and tie into one of the exsisting fittings hubs. |
| Posted by on 2007-11-09 13:30:33. Central NC (11511) |
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Regarding the former, ACC system, it is definitely the superior system, and it does not need a separate thermowell for the sensor. It's built into the heater. It takes samples of the water temperature every so often to refresh the sensor's take on temperature. 2 year warranty, with full manufacturer and after sales support. Made in the usa.
The latter, is an action box, with a canadian designed cti board inside. We used to sell them, but had to stop due to repeat failures. Perhaps they've fixed the duds by now, but due to the volume of customers we deal with and support after the sale, can't take the risk.
You take both these systems, put them side by side, and you'll see the difference in programmability, quality, and anticipated longevity immediately.
You definitely get what you pay for. |
| Posted by on 2007-11-09 14:04:27. Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region (11512) |
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| This topic has attachments which you can't view here. To see this topic in its entirety,
Click Here | | | The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk!
This topic has attachments which you can't view here. To see this topic in its entirety,
Click Here |
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