I am still trying to figure out what is the problem with my parents spa. I was wondering if the sspa spa packs have a flow switch. I can't find one on it. It does have a pressure switch.

Thanks

It cant have both. They are the same thing. They use flow switches when you have a small recirc. pump. Because the recirc pump doesnt push enough water to make a pressure switch engage.

Thanks. I did not think there there was both.

Gecko only uses pressure switches.If not heating 3 dots will show one display and on the boar " title="Cool" /> d.New Sundances starting to use this also.

How can I fix this problem with the lights flashing?? and wont get up to even 99 degrees?

The three flashing dots is either coming on because a) the pressure/flow switch detects low flow b) the hi-limit sensor tripped. A tripped hi-limit will also turn on a red LED on the circuit board. If you do not have this red LED, then either there's an issue with the pressure/flow switch or the flow is insufficient.

Whenever there is a error code on a spa 2 things should be done.1- turn off the GFCI and let the spa sit for 15-30 min to reset the board.Static electricity and dampness makes the spa do wild things.2-remove the filter to increase flow.Filter could be clogged thus reducing the flow hence errors on display.Now if the errors go away problem solved,if not look at a pressure swicth or flow switch. I've made service calls when the only problem was the water level in the spa was low so it was sucking air at the same time.

Less of a reply than more of a question...I have the same problem with my SPPA-1 (the 3 blinking dots on the topside); My board was recently rebuilt so I don't think that is the problem...Anyway, in troubleshooting...I do not see the LED on the board so I presume the problem is a pressure switch. I did not have a problem with my spa nor did I have the 3 blinking dot until I recently replaced my pump (put in a new wetend as the bearings were shot). The minute I started up the spa after replacing the pump, the 3 dots showed up. In troubleshooting I thought it may have been a dirty or clogged up switch as there was some gunk circulating when I turned on the rebuilt pump (it had been sitting while I waited for the wetend to come). So I ordered a new pressure switch. I also removed the filter and ordered another one just in case. After putting in the new switch, same 3 dot problem. In troubleshooting, I saw that it could have something to do with an "open" or "closed" switch. Not knowing what I was realling doing I started playing with this (certain I shouldn't have!). Anyway, I thought I was getting somewhere by turning it counter clockwise (not sure if this is closed or open???). But it turns out I have the same problem: This is what is going on: -The heater works -When I flip the breaker on, I can get the pump to hum...if I play with the topside controls, I can get the pump to work... - I can get the 3 dots to go away temporarily...for instance; if the water is say 95 degrees and I set the temp to 103, it will heat up to 103 with out the 3 dots going on, but the minute it cools to 102, they come back on it will not go back on by itself to heat back up to 103. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED " title="Very Happy" />

You can read how to adjust the switch on this site. http://www.nccn.net/~pool/spa_pressure_switch.htm From what I have learned you need to disconnect the wires on the pressure switch and put a mulit meter on it. Make sure that the breaker for the hot tub is off. Now adjust the screw on the top so it is circuit is open. Then when the tub is pumping the switch should be closed. Tub off = Switch open Tub on = Switch closed

og style,
thanks. I play around with that to see if it works.

When Adjusting your pressure switch. You want the pressure switch to be closed ( so you should have an continuity reading) when the pump is running. Then with the power off you should have no continuity reading on the multimeter. How the pressure switch works is that it threads into the heater barrell and as the water passes through the heater the water goes into the pressure switch and pushes up on the diapham. Then the diagham pushes the copper plate up to the two copper connections that the two wires hook onto and allowing a signal to pass through the switch and letting the circuit board know that there is proper water flow and the tub can now heat up. So make sure your flow switch is doing this properly, by testing with your multimeter. After making adjustments to the pressure if needed, always double check with your multimeter afterwards to see if you have gone to far in one direction.
The next way to double check the pressure switch is to have the tub running and the pump on low speed and if you have no three dots thats great and then turn your temp. down below what your curent temp of the water and make sure the filtration cycle is off and wait for the pump to kick off. Now see if you have any dots flashing now if "no" then great but if you do then that means you turned it too much and the weight of the water pressure is closing the switch, so back if off some and try again, (make sure your power is off before adjusting the pressure switch), hopfully this helps.

We just fixed my parents hot tub. We ordered 2 relays that power the heating element. When we took out the main board to change the relay we seen one of the solder joints for one of the relays was fried. Changed the relays and cleaned it up and the spa is fine now. Thanks for all the help.

spa_tech_services (or anyone else for that matter...) with regard to the 3 blinking lights - SPPA-1...On your 2/18 post (in your third sentence) when adjusting for open (no continuity), you mention"with the power off"...Do you mean: with power off as in the breaker off OR do you mean with just the pump off? I ask as I am still having issues getting the 3 blinking lights to go away. Also, I am suppose to remove the 2 leads when adjusting, correct? I've determined that this is not a high limit issue as the LED is not on...so I replaced the pressure switch. The board has been recently re-built and the topside is new (so I assume they are not the problem). I also recently replaced the wetend on the pump so that shouldn't be the problem...although this problem (3 blinking lights) didn't come up until I put the re-built pump back in. Is there ANY possible chance the pump is linked to the problem?....Anyway, having tried it all including adjusting the switch (unless I am doing it incorrectly-see above) I've tried with/without filter...blowing out the pressure switch and am waiting for a new filter to arrive that I have ordered. Is there anything I may be doing wrong with the water to affect this (the level is fine, water has a bit of debris in it from being one and off and changing pump but otherwise fine; however, again...is the something I could have done to the water while changing out the pump (air gap or something?). Again, any help would be appreciated...including running thru the troubleshooting steps once more ops:" title="Embarassed" /> Thank you

Just a follow up: When I get the pump running (with some fiddling around with the topside controls...I can get it to run and heat up without the 3 dots blinking), however; if it the water temp is at say 100 degrees and I set it to 103, it will heat to 103...but the moment it drops to 102, the pump won't restart up (to get it back to 103) and the 3 blinking dots re-appear. I'm so close to calling the repair person, but I'm too cheap! " title="Evil or Very Mad" /> Thanks!

Now with that new information given, that is telling us that there is a issue with your pump. Could be your start capisator or if your just replaced the wetend on the pump you might haven"t tighten the impellar on all the way, these would be things to check, as the pressure switch would appear to be fine now and its doing its reading properly.With the pump not pushing water through the heater, then theres no water pressure to engage the pressure switch when the board is excepting there to be flow. Check your work with the impellar and make sure its tighten on all the way.

SPATECH_SERVICES....Thanks a lot! Given that it only started after the wetend going in, that's what I suspected. Also since I re-installed it, it just hasn't sounded right (as in not what a new impeller with new bearing assy. should sound like). I'll break it down and do a little investigation and will let you know what I find out. Again...thank you all for your help! " title="Very Happy" />