Everything is working except the heater. I tested the element and am getting correct continuity. I notice that when I turn the heat on one of the contactors is not "engaging". If I manually press it in, there is power at the element. Everything worked fine until water was splashed on the spa box. Any help appreciated. It is a ap-1400 spa box 220v.

thanks in advance.

Check the voltage across the coil wires against the required power on the contactor itself. If it matches up, replace the contactor. If you're only getting 120v and need 240v, check to see which line isn't making it through and start tracing back.

Here's a source for the new contactor if that's the problem.

the first thing I did was replace the contactor. That wasn't the problem because the new contactor also wouldn't activate/close. I tried bypassing the flowswitch without success. Could the hi limit switch need to be replaced? Can I bypass the hi limit to test ?

I can't tell from the picture, but it looks like the high limit goes into the double pole contactor.

Since the contactor sticks when you press it in manually, I assume it is a 240v coil? Again, I'd start at the coil wires and work your way back to find out which line is not getting power and why.

Thanks. I'm going to try that. I'll let you know what I encounter.

Sorry for the delay in responding with my results.

There is no voltage across the contactor itself. Not sure if this is relevant but I get no voltage between the red/black plug which has 4 wires and connects to the thermostat dial. It seems the high-pump contactor is always engaged if there is power turned on (this is the double pole contactor). The heater contactor will not engage. This is a 220v box so heat should work on hi and lo speeds.

Thanks again

So if you were to disconnect the red/black line from the one side of the coil and the white from the other and test them together and individually to ground, what would you see?

I disconnected the red/black line and white from each side of the contactor. With "Heat" on i get no voltage from red to white, black to white.

Anything to ground on either? If not, is there continuity to ground on the white wire?

No voltage to ground either. I checked continuity set at 200, and get.5 from white to ground.

I noticed that the pump is not running. However when I plug the top controls into the outlet for a 2nd pump, the pump works. This outlet/plug has only a black and white wire which is only for a 2nd pump and not the heater. The Main plug which has 4 wires used to control the pump and heat just fine.

RE the pumps, check both those big fuses to be sure they're still alright.

For the contactor, looks like you should have a 120v coil contactor, so be sure that's what's installed. Check continuity across the pressure switch (small round grey guy on the bottom right) with the pump on.

Thanks for continuing to troubleshoot with me.

I checked those two fuses and one of them is bad. I switch the order and the pump is now working. Still no heat. I haven't checked the continuity of the pressure switch yet but will do that next. I know previously, when the pump was functioning, I had by-passed the pressure switch completely and still had no heat.

Now that the pump is working I'm hoping we can trace the component thats stopping the current!

Yes the contactor has a 120v coil, I had initially replaced it but it didn't help.

One more note. Early in the troubleshooting if I manually pressed the contactor, there would be voltage at the heating element. Now when I press it there is no voltage at the element.

Some add'l info. I've determined that there is no voltage from the red wire that connects to the pressure switch and then feeds to the heater contactor. Attached is a picture.

I think that red wire comes from your thermostat? So check that next once you've done the continuity on the switch and gotten the fuse replaced.

yes. that red wire connects directly to thhe thermostat spa side control....i'll pick up a new fuse tonight, then how do I go about testing the thermostat?

Replaced the dead fuse. Still no power to the contactor. There is continuity thru the pressure switch. I notice when I disconnect the red wire (coming from t-stat) from the pressure switch, the heat light on the thermostat is lit, when I connect it again the light is off. Hope this makes sense.

You'll need to check the power coming from the red wire. Should be 120v with the thermostat closed, 0v with it open (if it's warm enough to open at all).

Checked red wire coming from thermostat. When opened and closed there is no power to ground.

Hmmm. Either your thermostat's the problem or it's not getting power to begin with. I'm not sure which line is the incoming for it. Maybe orange? I'll try looking into that. *from looking at your picture I think it's the yellow line but I'm not positive on that.

spihex, I took the cover off the thermostat and checked for power...orange has no voltage, yellow has 120volts. Still no power to the heater contactor and the low pump is functioning.