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| The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
| Hydro-quip, no high speed |
Hello,
I just picked up a hot tub (hydro-quip 1000 series) from craigslist, and all works, but the high speed for the motor is not working. I just have one pump/motor. The low speed appears to work great, just when you press the air button, nothing happens. I have ohmed out the switch and it appears to be working. I checked to make sure all 3 wires (L1, L2, and N) were hooked up properly at the motor. I measure between L1 and N and get 240v, L2 and N and get 240v. I unhook L2 (black) from the switch and still get 240v between L2 and N. Between L1 and L2, there is 7.5v.
If I understand it correctly, the motor was replaced 3 years ago due to this problem and it didn't fix it. I could be wrong, so I am throwing that scenario out for now.
I am not unfamiliar with AC power, but not experienced with 2 speed 240v AC motors. Any help is appreciated! Thanks! |
| Posted by on 2007-10-15 21:23:06. (11182) |
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I switched the red and black wires to the motor to see a change, and it blew a 30A fuse...
Should the low speed kick off and the high speed kick on when the button is pressed? It has a Franklin Electric motor on it. Ground is on the ground. I think the red in on #1 spot, black on #2 spot, and white on #3 spot... |
| Posted by on 2007-10-16 01:41:47. (11190) |
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I looked at the wiring diagram on the motor and it shows 1&3 go together for low speed, 1&2 for the high speed... So it looks like the neutral should be on the #1 position. Right now the red is on #1, black is on #2, and neutral on #3. I moved the neutral on the #1 position and the red to the #3 position and left the black at #2. As I suspected, this still keeps the motor running at low speed, but now I have not voltage on the black wire at any time. I measure voltage to the other side of the switch and in either position, it doesn't change. The wire at the switch should be broken in at least one of those position, but not change in reference with neutral. |
| Posted by on 2007-10-16 19:43:45. (11206) |
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...
Well, I have come to the conclusion from bending many peoples ears, that the white wire I have been calling a neutral may not even be a neutral at all... It ties straight into the 110v from L2 at the main service. From what I can tell, the 110 from the low speed couples with the 110 from the L2 main service line to make 220v to run the low speed on one set of windings. It looks like the high speed switch adds 110 v with the white wire from L2 main service feed to make 220v at the other set of windings making high speed kick in. I know the voltage is before the switch, and not after. I will unhook the motor, jumper out the switch and measure between the white and black, should be 220, and then white to red, should also be 220. If that is the case, then high should kick on. If not, it looks like other problems may occur. We have decided that the original wiring the motor may be correct and it will be changed back. |
| Posted by on 2007-10-16 23:15:31. (11209) |
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Well, I jumpered the switch. I got 0v on the low speed and 240v on the high speed without the motor plugged in. I plugged the motor in and it blew a fuse. I ohmed out the motor and got 12 ohms on the low speed, 0.1 ohms on the high speed. Looks like my motor is bad as well as the switch... |
| Posted by on 2007-10-19 14:28:19. (11238) |
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| | | The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
Note: Prices and Specifications subject to change without notice
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