Have got the new board hooked up but nothing happens when I turn my breakers back on.
Can anyone help.

Thanks

When you buy the board it is set up for 110volts in the packaging. Did you take out the 2 power jumpers that are located just above where the wires are inserted into the openings? You need to pry them up and slide them out...with power off of course.

Thank you Dan the spa man. That was the trick.
I obviously had no idea about the jumpers and it wasnt mentioned in anything that was shipped with the new board.

Cheers
Marcus

No problem...

So its been 12 hours and apparently the heater is not working. I checked the reset button yesterday and it didnt need to be pushed. Any ideas?

Push the reset anyway, if you haven't.

Only an electrician, technician or someone very versed in electrical testing should proceed with the following: If that doesn't work, you can test the connections where the white and black wire from the heater connects to the board. Should have 220v at those connections. A continuity test can also be performed on the heater at the white and black wire. A further amp draw test can be performed on either the white or black wire.

Should I have 220 on each connection or 220 combined? It looks to me that I have 110 on each.

Also, there are diodes on the old board at C3, C4, C5, C6 and U4, U5 that are not on the new board. Do I have the wrong board? According to the website this is the right board.

you have power there from your reading. Usually you're testing across to get 220v. Some testing is down ground to each leg, and your results of 110v per leg is right. There is only one heater board, so you have the right one. are you in hot water yet?

No hot water. The lights on the main board are on indicating the heater is on but no actual heat. I have a guy coming out tomorrow to let me know what the problem is. I think the heater has gone out and if that is the case I might try to replace myself and save some $. Is the heater difficult to replace?

Heater is as easy to replace as heater board. You might want a couple of corks for the heater tubing(while replacing heater, water tends to gush out). Or don't be afraid to clamp the heater hosing flat with some visegrips. Can't hurt the 3/4i.d. clear hose.

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Where can you look up the circuit info and board info? Where can you order the part (other than the manufacturer?

I just did a Google search. I found the spastore.com. $83 for the heater relay board.

Thanks for the info. I read there were two versions? The newer is supposed to be more resistant to power surge? Looks like the same part number.