Hello, This is to whoever thinks they can help me, any would be appriciated. I have a jacuzzi z140 I have rebuilt it to like new shape new pumps new heater new circuit board and topside control. I am having a problem I installed new pumps, new heater originally and when I had power put to the jacuzzi it didn't run. I noticed the leg 3 on the board to the heater post was burned pretty bad. I ordered the board and found that the new one did the same thing expensive mistake. I had thought the heater was bad and this was causeing high resistance and burning the leg. I was wrong. I have since checked for voltage across the heater terminal at the heater and no voltage is present. I imagine I have ruined the new board. I have replaced the the copper pieces to the heater and checked resistance throught the heater 11 ohms and to each post of the heater and the heater case infaniate/ol I checked both new strips to the 6 way connector and both no resistance. Am I missing anything before I hook up a new board. Again any help would be great. Thank you in advance. Also I think the screw I used to secure the leg to the way connector had some old material on it could this have ruined the board.

Indeed the system WAS heating before, with bad wiring, which is why it fried the connector tabs on the new board. What I would do... is pull the board and rework the leg that's fried. All the way from the relay output to where it leaves the circuit board heading to the heater element terminal. Essentially this involves using a good solder GUN (100 watt) NOT a soldering iron of the 30 watt variety and rosin core solder. Make a good solid jumper wire from the board at the output of the relay using heavy duty heating type wire, preferably fine stranded 10 gauge wire with a soldered loop lug on the other end to attach to the heater element post. This type of wire can be salvaged from an worn out heating appliance such as a coffee pot, iron or dead space heater. This is smaller than 10 gauge so I'd use two of these in parallel and twist the ends together. That will cure the problem of the fried board ends as that's usually all that's affected... just the board thingy with the screw hole. With this bypass you end up not using it. Note that I said this is what I do, not what you should do, so if you don't feel confident or can't find someone competent to do it for you, then by all means please get a new board and be sure you've got fantastic clean tight connections next time. These little things gotta handle 20+ amps continuously which is a LOT of current, and a little resistance in the connection will fry it quickly. And if you don't do it right, you'll end up with another fire inside of your control box or worse... " title="Smile" /> PS: This shows an example only... but not the direct to circuit board modification I'm talking about: http://spasupport.com/electrical/main/burnedwires.html

Thank you for the help I have a couple of questions. Can I use a single wire of 8 gauge, I think it is capable of carring 30amps. Or two pieces of 10 gauge as you have said, which would be eaiser to solder. Last question do you solder it to the front side where the foil is burn to or the back side right off of the leg coming from the relay. Or can I directly wire it to the relay some how. I can post a picture later if it will help to show what I am talking about. Thanks again.

Thank you pageup I did exactly as you said and soldered two pieces of an old irons coil wire to the back of the board accross the out put and soldered the other end to a lug and heat is working great. You saved me I am too honest and told my wife what I did and what a yelling I got untill I fixed it with your help. Thank you so much for your time.