Hi, I have a Blue Ridge Spa by Jacuzzi that continues to trip the GFI breaker it is connected to. To verify the breaker was good I've reset and used it for other things without problem. I've also plugged the tub into a wall socket that is GFI (tub is currently wired 110) and that socket trips as well. There is a clicking sound like a relay almost within the tub everytime that it trips. So, the confusing thing is if I plug the tub into a regular wall socket (or non-GFI) it appears to run fine.

I've taken the cover off and disconnected the wiring to the heater and when plugged back in with the GFI everything works fine (with the exception of the heater of course). I'm kind of under the impression that either the heating system is bad or there is something called a "high Limit" switch that may be bad. Is my train of thought correct? What else could I try? and where could I get the necessary repair parts? Any input is much appreciated, I live in NY and I don't want the tub to freeze!

Your heater element is bad. The universal 5.5 kw element in the link should do the trick if you have the usual blue ridge flow through heater.

The heater is losing some amount of electricity into the water. That is a fault to ground, which is what a GFCI prevents and why you need one instead of a normal outlet. DO NOT leave your tub plugged into the normal outlet.

Sir, I thank you and will unplug immediately. I will also, try and remove the element (it appears extremely corrosive). Thank you again, I will try and replace today and post results.

While the 3/8" terminal nuts can get pretty bad, the 3/4" nuts holding the heater to the tube are usually surprisingly easy. There's water in there, so be sure your valves are closed. " title="Laughing" /> Good luck!

OK so here's the new situation... I went to a local hot tub supplier (a non-Jacuzzi) and they didn't have the right element configuration. I was going to simply buy a complete replacement system until I saw the price and the fact they only had 220 units. I guess I'll have to start looking online, any suggestions? You still advise not plugging the system in even if no one will be getting in it just to keep it from freezing?

If you can lock it up, I'd consider it, but if it's out in the yard where someone could just open the cover then it's not worth leaving it on. Leave it plugged in to the GFI outlet with the heater disconnected. The circulation of the water alone will prevent freezing.

The element in the link I posted above will work just fine. Any 220v element can be wired for 110v, so don't be thrown off by that. Just go with the standard 5.5kw rated element.

The heating elements I'm finding seem a lot closer spaced togethor than what mine appears to be, are there different configurations. I also see that they are universal, 110 or 220... what's the next step?

Would there be an issue with 'bending' a new element to fit? They're just spaced a little too close compared to my set up.

The heating 'cylinder' is a vertical flow through system that is roughly 9" long and has the electrical connections spaced 5" apart from element end to element end. The top of the system is some sort of screw on PVC cap that the water flows into and the base has the exit, both with 1" slip fit connections... I don't know if this information helps at all, I'm fishing here and haven't found anything online yet that resembles my set up. I found information from the previous owner about the tub, it is a Blue Ridge Spa, System 9075, purchased on 6/8/99.

Again, I appreciate any further input! This forum has proven extremely useful, Thank you.

I think this is the one you have? You won't be able to replace just the element in that guy. Have to do the whole thing.

Well, I've finally found a replacement and an actual Blue Ridge Spa customer service individual (an actual person on the phone). As Sphisex stated earlier, I will need to replace the entire heating system " title="Sad" /> but the cost was less that expected " title="Very Happy" /> ! For future reference for anyone with a Blue Ridge Spas with any type of service question or need of parts, contact: 800-393--7727, my heater system cost a mere $185 without shipment. Sphisex, thank you very much for the guidance!

No problem, thanks for the report! " title="Very Happy" />

Ok so here's the deal... I received my new heater, installed the system (thanks by the way whoever suggested the wine corks to slow the water loss!), and then plugged the hot tub back in. The ground fault didn't trip and the heater started working immediately, however, now the button for the jets doesn't appear to be work! The system is wired for 110V so if the jets are on, the heater is off, but now when I push the button, the heater light stays on and the jets don't turn on!?!? The coldest the water temperature ever reached was 40*F and I had the regular pump on while waiting for the new heating unit, do you think the remote jet pump could have froze up? but if it did why wouldn't it ground fault or overload when I pushed the button?

Again, I'm very thankful for all input... and apologize for my ignorance.

Do you have an air button for the jets or a digital control? If you have air buttons, check to make sure you didn't knock the tube loose from the box or the button itself when you replaced the heater.

Honestly I don't know the difference between the two (air vs. electric)... I'm assuming it is air though because I have what appears to be 1/8" clear tubing going to the panel box that connects to a diaphram of sorts. I'll have to take a look and see if all hoses are connected tonight, I did notice that one of the diaphrams was pulled from the panel box, but I noticed this when I first wired the tub and the button was still functional.

Yeah, that's an pneumatic system. The buttons up top just force air pressure through the tube into a switch in your control. Those come undone all the time. If it's still connected, you'll have to see if it's the button, the switch, or the tube that's bad by process of elimination.