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| The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
| Troubleshooting question. |
I am looking for troubleshooting assistance. I have a Leisure Bay spa that seems to keep having electrical problems. It is a 220 v system and seems to keep cooking spa packs. The first pack worked OK for about two weeks before it cooked. The only problem with it was that the heater seemed to stay on continually regardless of the temperature setting or pump status. This resulted in eventual overheating if the pump was running and instant overheating (within 10 seconds) after the pump was turned off. I was searching these forums for suggestions and was cutting the power off between uses.
Eventually the blower started making a high pitched whine and when the spa was shut off it would not restart. No lighting of the controller or activation of the pump or blower. I figured that the spa pack had cooked due to the constant overheating so I purchased a new Balboa pack. The wiring to the tub has been confirmed to be OK. There is 220 v between the red and black wires, 110 between the red/white and black/white. Continuity checked negative between all wires except the white and ground. The wiring in the breaker box (50 amp) and outside disconnect appears as described and illustrated in the Balboa illustration. The breaker, wire and disconnect were all installed by an electrician.
On a whim I checked the continuity of the pump’s wiring while it was disconnected from the spa pack. There IS continuity between red/black/white. I am not sure if this is normal or not. All of the pump wiring is new and is only a simple “plug in” from the new Balboa pack.
I really don’t want to buy a new pump and/or blower if they are not needed, but certainly don’t want to cook the new pack. Some of the further details are:
Two speed 220 v pump. (The high speed wire was initially disconnected when I bought the spa. The person I bought it from said that he did that because he didn’t like the high speed and felt that having lower speed only gave the tub more of a “spa feel”. Don’t know if that is BS or not!)
Blower is a 110 v system.
Ozonater (spelling) is also a 110 v system.
Light is a 12 v DC light.
Any help, assistance or advice will certainly be appreciated! |
| Posted by on 2007-07-02 15:19:33. (10333) |
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You should see low ohm's when checking continuity of you motor windings. The one thing you haven't mentioned is grounding for your house and tub. A poor ground will leave you vulnerable any surge or spikes in your power. My intallation I installed a ground rod at the GFI at the tub along with the NEC code compliant wiring to my service panel. |
| Posted by on 2007-07-07 11:33:32. Lexington OH (10365) |
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Thanks for the info. The ground is coming from the main breaker box. I will recheck the lines coming from the motor to get the exact numbers. |
| Posted by on 2007-07-07 19:42:53. (10366) |
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| | | The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
Note: Prices and Specifications subject to change without notice
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