I have a 97-98 Streamline spa that has a Balboa Deluxe spa pack and a 7 button topside controller. I have had my 240v blower go in the past 2 weeks and kept blower the breaker at certain times. I pulled the blower off of the spa pack and it would run and not blow the gfi breaker ever. I then plugged the blower back in and after 30 seconds the gfi would blow. I purchased a ultra 9000 blower from a local shop and installed it. This ultra 900 is a 240 v and works great.

I plug the blower in and turn on the gfi and the blower will NOT stop blowing. I cannot turn it off.

Usually this spa would turn on for 30 seconds after initial gfi turn on and then the system would go off for 3 minutes, then after that time it would resume to normal operation.

I turn the gfi on and everything starts up for 30 seconds and the only thing that does NOT shut off after 30 seconds is the blower. I cannot turn it off.

The old blower is too shot and blows sparks to try that and see if it will turn off, but that is not an option.

I have taken some measurements at the triac 6 and all lead are at 122.9 volts, no matter what buttons I push on the controller. I have the same reading with the blower hooked to the pack and I have the same readings with the blower unplugged.

It seems like I have a bad triac

I do not feel that it is worth 400 -600 for a new spa pack when everything else works great.

So I have a couple of options, replace the triac or further diagnose the circuit board problem, or add an air switch.

What else can I measure on the ckt board to further diagnose my problem??

oh yeah there is a 122.9 volts at the Blower output on the board that never goes away. There seems like a problem from the processor to the triac.

What next??

That triac is not directly connected to the processor. It's connected to a diac-opto isolator ic (8 pin) right next to it.

You can get a triac from jameco or digikey for a few bucks and replace it yourself if you know what you're doing. Pretty easy job. Be sure to get a triac with an isolated to-220 tab and rated for minimum 400v at 8 amps (minimum).

And if your current triac is shorted (which it sounds like it is), none of the readings on it will make any sense.

That is what i have been told today by other spa guys... I will replace the triac when this rain stops......Thanks for the info.....

I have been reading more about this on these forums and I was reading that alot of times the 6 pin optoisolator is also bad and will cause the triac to short out again. Am I better off looking for an optoisolator also??

opto part on board is:

MOC 3021 C540 I can get a MOC 3021 6 pin opto

and the triac is a TECCOR Q4010L5 which is

400v
10amp
to-220ab

Should I get a opto also??

I wouldn't - it's 10x the pain in the ass of the triac by itself. However, it wouldn't hurt to just buy it and have it ready in case the new triac does the same thing. (If I were you, since they're so cheap I'd go ahead and buy 2 of each component just in case anyway).

You had a crappy blower to begin with which is what kills the triacs in the first place. The overload doesn't and shouldn't necessarily kill your opto-isolator diac control circuit.

Thanks for the info...

replace just the triac and we are up....A local electronic shop had a 600v replacement/cross reference for my bad triac.....spa is up and was great last night....thanks.. " title="Cool" />