Make: Hot Springs, Grandee, 1996, G-361014
Power: 220V, 30 Amp and 20 Amp GFI circuit
Control box: Original (has no markings other than "HotSprings"
Thermostat: Pushbutton knob on side of the housing
Heater Type: Watkins No-Fault 5500 cartridge heater
Circulation pump: Watkins Silent Flow 5002

Before I dump $600+ on a new cover and heater I want to determine if my suspiciously bad heater or pump or ???? is at fault.

Winter is approaching fast and I'm racing against the clock to get this bad boy fixed before the white stuff falls.

My heater has a resistance less than 10 ohms. My power on light is not blinking (an indication that the hi-temp isn't the cause I believe).

1) My heater does not feel warm to the touch even if I set the temp control to max and I hear the relay kick in. Shouldn't I eventually feel SOME warmth there in this case?

2) Is it true that my Silent Flow 5002 circulation pump should ALWAYS be running? It doesn't feel like it is - ever.

3) I notice that my Silent Flow 5002 is always too hot to touch. Is this a true bad sign?

From what I've read in the posts here, this could be a stuck impeller, a bad motor or the water filters are clogged.

I attempted an impeller fix by banging on the motor casing with a rubber mallet and then carefully with a regular hammer. Motor is still hot and doesn't appear to be pumping.

I also removed 2 of my water filters in case they were impeding the flow. Motor is still hot and doesn't appear to be pumping.

4) I have a Watkins 34829 flow switch that is marked with a rating from 5 to 28 volts. I don't get any voltage (AC or DC) at the terminals at any time. Is this a true bad sign?

5) That flow switch measures open resistance out of circuit.

6) There are 3 connectors that come from the control box that all look the same (see photo). I want to confirm their correct position. Is it:

Top = Thermister (goes to IN side of heater)
Mid = High limit (goes to OUT side of heater)
Bottom = Flow Sensor

Any thoughts on my approach to steps to fixing this this?

I've conqured the repair of 3 major pipe bursts and am anxious to move forward.

Brian

Most important thing is to get that circ pump running first.

If you're not getting water flow in the tub from it, then it just ain't gonna work.

Definitely need that circ pump running...a silent flo 5002 is a 2-speed circ pump. The high speed kicks in when the heater is on...at all other times the low speed stays on.

It is not uncommon for them to fail after sitting unused for an extended period of time.

Thank you. I guess what I'm asking is if it is normal for the motor to be so hot.

If not, could it be more related to just a plain ol' bad motor or that the impeller is stuck?

I mentioned previously that I also removed the filters in case this was the problem. Actually I removed 2 of the 5 and am now wondering if certain filters are dedicated to the path for the pump. Meaning, should I have removed them all?

I'm asking these questions before I spend $150 on a new pump.

Thanks!
Brian

If yours has a different colored filter stub, then it'll be the one that's grey.

Otherwise it's just as easy to remove all 5.

Hi,

I removed and dismantled the circ pump. The impeller must have been stuck because when I bench tested it, everything worked fine.

With the pump in place I have a small leak where the out tube is connected as shown in the attached photo. Is there anything to do that'll resolve this?

Also shown in the photo is the thermistor on the heater. It leaks as well. I put some tfe paste there put no luck.

Lastly, with the above pump in place and power applied, I can feel it running. However, I'm still not sure if the heater is working. It isn't warm to the touch. What can I do to determine?

Thanks,
Brian

Tightening the thermistor will only make the heater leak worse. Either replace the heater-body (NOT the entire heater, just the plastic heater housing, it's still available and not expensive), or drain, and silicone in the thermistor, and hope the silicone fills the crack in the heater housing. Be aware that if you ever need to change the thermistor, it will be a bit of a nuisance.

As far as the circ pump leak, just use a better clamp. Those spring clamps don't have enough spring to 'em sometimes...although, once the tub warms up, unlike the heater leak, that circ pump leak will probably fix it's self.

~Swine

Swine - That sounds great - thanks.

What steps should I take to see if the heater is heating? It doesn't feel warm.

Brian

They never do.

You're heating a bunch of water with a itty bitty heater.

When the tub gets warm, then the heater will mimick it.

Only other way to determine if it's heating is a clamp on ammeter on one leg of the power going to the heater, or, do a voltage check on the heater input wiring, followed by power off, then an ohms check. If you've got voltage, and subsequently measure continuity across the element, then you're heating.

I'm measuring 25 Amps! That means the heater is good and I'm thisclose to having a working tub!! Just one small leak beneath and one thermistor to be sealed on the heater.

Actually, I also have to get a cover. I currently don't have one. That'll be the biggest expense so far.

I did notice that I have a check valve that is always stuck in the closed position. I believe it is glued in place. Any thoughts on my idea of drilling a small hole(s) to pop it out of position? I figure I can plug it by cementing something in place.

Any thoughts or should I leave it as is?

A cover is imperative-even a floating blue-bubble cover will help substantially

~Enjoy!!!

You better post a photo of exactly WHICH check valve you're talking about.

I attached the check valve photo. It looks in the photo like the valve is open, but it is not.

I marked in red where I think I'd drill a hole in order to "punch" the internal piece out of position. Problem is that I'm not sure what I'd seal it with.

Any thoughts?

Are you sure the check valve is stuck?

Are you familiar with the "smart-jet" system, that incorporates 4 different jet configurations per pump, using (1) 2 position jet selector lever on the bartop AND (1) 3 way adjustable jet-stream jet/divirter (under water) per pump?

I'll verify again that the check valve is stuck but I'm very sure it is. If not, then I'd like to service it this weekend. In that case, would anyone have an idea on what to use to seal the drilled holes I place in the housing?

I've done something similar before and to fill the hole I used a tap and then threaded in a plug and covered it with a few layers of Devcon.

Just be sure that you don't thread in the plug too far or the valve will catch on it.