I bought my house about six months ago and it came with a 1997 Hot Springs Prodigy hot tub. I just drained and refilled the hot tub for spring and the heat pump pushes water out of the hose into the filter for about 5 minutes then stops (no heat either). It was working fine before I drained it. I think I have air trapped in the heater and small water heater pump (not main water pump). I have loosened the unions on the main pump and even undid the clips to the small circulation pump to hopefully purge any air out. I got a lot of water coming out so I figured that the air was out. The small water heater pump (circulation pump) still stops after about 5 minutes. If I flip the switch on the circuit board (i think this is the hi-temp reset) to off, the small water heater pump will continue to flow. I didn't do this long for I fear that I will cause a dry fire within the heater so I don't know if the water would eventually warm up or not. I also tried covering the heated water discharge (iBoth palaces - in the hot tuba and the filter area) hoping to purge the air that way. The small pump still cuts out after 5 minutes. FYI - the main pump seems to be working fine. Can anyone shed any light on this before I waste $150 having a technician come out next week? I think this is the problem because this happened when I first bought the home and the previous owner drained and refilled the hot tub. I have since learned that I need to fill the tub through the filter compartment and also flip the 30 amp breaker and let it run before flipping the 20 amp one. Leason learned, but any help with getting my problem fixed would be greatly appreciated.
-Thanks
Matt

Is it in summer mode?

Are the filters clean?

Once the air is out, it's out....unless the filters are clogged.

I don't think I have a summer or winter mode on mine. The filters are all new. I just don't know if I have all the air out. Like I said I loosened the unions on the main water pump and 2 of the clamps for the circulating pump. Is there any other places I need to open to let possible air out? Is there any connection directly to the heater that I need to try? I am fairly certain that every part is working, because it was last Friday before I drained it. I don't know what else to try. I don't know if this helps, but my power light is a steady red(like it should be) and not flashing or anything like that.
-Matt

If the circ pump pushes water for more than 30 seconds, the air is out. Summer mode, there's a switch under some red tape on the side of your control box. Peel off the tape to reveal the switch and the "summer timer onn/off" label. Be sure summer mode is off. Have you taken out your filters?

While the circ pump is running for the 5 minutes bnefore it shuts down, is it pushing water, or just making some noise?
Is it still getting proper voltage after it "shuts down?"

YOU ARE A GENIUS!! I thought the switch under the red tape on the control box was the hi-limit switch. If I turn that to off the circulation pump will stay on. I was afraid that I was by-passing the hi limit switch by turning it off and that I might cause a dry fire. Hopefully when I turn it off the water will start to heat. Can you explain what this switch is for? Why did it work in the winter? Do I turn it off when the weather is over freezing? Sorry for all the questions, but I can't believe I was wrong after doing my research. I guess the button on the heater itself is the hi-limit switch. I can't thank you enough for your help on this. I am new to hot tubbing and apparently I have a lot to learn.

-Thanks
Matt

YAY! Well, the circ pump is magnetically driven on that model, and mag drive pumps excell in transfering most of the heat generated by the motor directly back into the water. In cooler climates, this makes for a more energy efficient Spa. But in warmer climates, on a well insulated spa, the circ pump can actually heat a smaller Hot Spring spa over 100F. These tubs don't come with air conditioners, and over 100F is too hot for many customers in the summer time! Hence the birth of "summer mode" Essentially, it turns off the circ pump 2 minutes after it's engaged, and the circ pump will stay off for 8 hours. It then turns itself on again after 8 hours, and runs for 16. Wash, rinse, repeat... until you take it out of summer mode. 8 hours of down time is all it takes to lose the heat transfer of the other 16. Sorry for the long explanation ops:" title="Embarassed" /> ~Enjoy Swine

Thanks again for all your help and thorough explanations. Hopefully by tomorrow evening I will have nice warm water " title="Smile" />. -Matt

The circulation pump is working fine, but I still have no heat. Do you know if the red button on the heater is the high limit reset? I see the word Hi-Limit on the control box by the summer mode switch, but I don't know how to reset it or see if it has tripped. Like I said, everything worked before I drained and refilled the hot tub. Do you think that I might have air trapped in the heater? I can't see how I would purge it out, but any advice would be appreciated. Can I tell anything by the lights on the inside of the control box? I think I have 3 lights (one is green and 2 are red). This is getting frustrating " title="Sad" />. -Matt

There's a high-limit on the heater, usually under a little bit of tape. It's the tiny red button on the top of the little junction-box on one end of the heater.


Ususally, the tape must be peeled back to be able to firmly press that button. It's likely it just tripped. Press it as hard as you can, then feel the heater. The origianl No-Fault 6000's got pretty hot, so unlike most in-line heaters, you can actually feel this one getting hot when it's on.

Good luck!

How about the lights on the topside? The red power light is lit, and the green ready light is not lit, correct?

I will try the button again and feel for heat. I've only seen the red POWER light on the control panel. I have a green READY light as well? I will check again. Do the lights in the control box mean anything for diagnosis purposes?
-Matt

I just hit the button again. It doesn't seem to push in, but I pushed as hard as I could. Should I feel/hear a click or something? I just checked my control panel. I only have one light, which is POWER and is a steady red. There are no other lights on my control panel. I have 4 lights in my control box (LIM OK (steady green), HTR (steady red), Unplugged (not on), and FLOW (steady red). Does this help with anything? I guess I should have just made an appointment with the dealer so I can get on their list. I just know that everything was working fine before I grained it and replaced the filters. I guess thats what I get for trying to do the right thing! " title="Crying or Very sad" /> -Thanks Matt

You're going to need to OHM out the heater, and check for volatge going to the heater. Unplug the heater leads from the control box, and check resistance. If you get O/L, bad heater. Try really mashing that button again for all you're worth, and OHM out again. Should be between 9 and 11 OHMS. Double check voltage as well, should be 220v on the 30 amp breaker. Be sure to meter the hot leads together, not one at a time, to get 220v. A bad heater breaker (30 amp) also fits your description of issues, as well as a bad T-92 heater relay (18v dc coil) Also, once the Hot tub has reached temp, you should see a green "ready" light appear on the control panel, oright next to the red power light " title="Very Happy" />

I'll give it a try. Thanks again

called the service guy. I found out that the heater had ben replaced and that the red "button" I have been pushing is indeed a sticker. He told me the original heater had the reset button in the same spot as the red sticker. The reset is on the backside. He reset it and it is working fine now. Now I know, but thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it.
-Matt