Hi, (hope this is in the right forum)
We got a used Dreammaker X-Calibur spa from a friend my in-laws... can't beat the price! We brought it home, used the tool to remove, clean, and inspect all jets; then set it up and used it quite a bit from Oct 07 to Feb 08. Just before we stopped using it, the side we used most often started making a "whirring/gurgling" noise when we opened the venturi valves (hope that is what they are called); the other side worked fine with no noise and when the noisy one was closed there was no noise. We stopped using it as it got a little warmer and I was going to fix it right away.

Fast forward 5 months and woodworking and my motorcycle has earned far more of my free time which is not much anyway with 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 yr old daughters. I would like to get this figured out and have done some net surfing, and looking around in the shell with the panel off... I'm hoping someone could give some pointers are where to start. I'm pretty handy with many things mechanical, electrical, and plumbing and a little bit in electronics. I had not even realized that the plug had been pulled out and no one knows who did it or when so as you can imagine the water is a little funky... a slight greenish tint. I plugged it back in and currently it is running to get the temp back up to 100 from 84 during its initial power on cycle. I wasn't sure if I needed to drain it below the jets before taking them apart to check for blockage, air leak, etc. My first inkling was that there is some sort of air leak from one of the fittings on the venturi valve, manifold, or jets. But now the noise is present when using the other side valve as well... has me wondering if there is trapped air or something else. I know it was not smart for us to neglect the poor thing but that is in the past now. Hopefully we can get it back up and running right soon and will drain and refill and put new chemicals, etc. I guess there may be some sort of flush that needs to be run through it to clean the funk growing in the pump, pipe, etc. Spa information and images provided below... any assistance is greatly appreciated!

1. Dreammaker X-Calibur, ~2004
2. Plugged into outside GFCI outlet (only thing using outside plug on regular basis)
3. Control box is labeled Balboa LB70... couldn't find any info on Google.


4. Topside control is electronic.


5. Pump: Not sure, maybe the first one?: 1 Main pump 115V, 1 Waterway Circulation Pump



6. Thermostat: pushbuttons on topside control

7. Heater Type: Thermal wrap... doesn't look like a beer stein but I guess its close - Beer Stein looking thing, has two small hoses.



Misc pics:

The air control valves are prone to having the "Splash back diaphragm" dry out a bit, and sing. From the top and outside, gently pop the cap of the air control valve off by prying on either side of the pointer with a flat head screw driver. The plunger rides on two guides, and pulls up and out. Then You will see a rubber disk held in place by spokes. Get some "O-Ring Lubricant" (Magic lube etc) and dab it onto and around the diaphragm. Your beer stein is a Heat exchange. The heat exchange may be bypassed by removing the hose on the face of the pump motor, and bend it around to the nipple on the suction side plumbing, or remove and plug. I only say this because it may come up in the future " title="Wink" />

Thanks! I decided to run Spa Purge and then drain and refill. Before the refill we scrubbed the tub and removed, cleaned and inspected all jets. One had a torn o-ring and a couple did not thread in easily... didn't seem crossthreaded but maybe stripped. I think they are waterway mini jets based on pictures on different sites. I haven't tried anything with the control valve but will try your suggestion. Should O-ring lube be used on the jets as well?

Also, I'm guessing that you mention the heat exchange bypass because they tend to go bad or tend to be replaced by other methods?

Thanks,
Mark

Hey Mark, Yes the lube works well on the valve internal. Sometimes it is the fix for a stuck valve internal. The valve internal shaft has two o-rings that the auger rides over. I usually lube them, so that the valve is smooth as it turns. The outer o-ring on the auger tends to deform, and sometimes you can get away without replacing it. The Thermal Wrap was discontinued in later production. There was a run of faulty Exchange Wraps that was suspected of "Re-Grind", and or weak or thin spots within walls. The amount of benefit they produced was easily outweighed by their detriment " title="Wink" /> No other replacement was offered. Enjoy! " title="Very Happy" />