1. Dimension One/Interlude/1997
2. Dedicated 240v, 50a circuit
3. Circuit Board: Balboa 27100 Rev 2c
4. Topside control: Electronic (original)
5. Pump Configuration: Laing circulation pump (120v); two speed jet pump 240v (brand unknown)
6. Thermostat: Pushbuttons on topside control
7. Heater Type: RMF E2400-0003
8. Ozone: CrystalPure

I acquired the above last summer from a friend and transported it to my home in Maine. I found a temporary location to set it up and, once connected and filled, was able to see that it worked. I then drained it, tipped it on its side, cleaned it and waited far too long (that is, the snow was already flying) to get it in its current home up on my deck. I connected and filled it and when first started, the control showed an "FL" error. As the circulation pump was running, I took a hair dryer to the exposed pipes and heater, thinking that despite having drained it (and having tipped it on its side... the one with the drain plug) that some amount of water might have remained and become frozen. Sure enough, after a while the FL code cleared. I'd filled it with warm water (70-ish) so, despite the low-teen temps overnight, it was a toasty 102 by morning. That's when things started going south...

Later that day, I saw a large mound of ice on the floor of the equipment panel (I hadn't replaced the louvered cover at this point.) It soon became clear that a leak had emerged from the top electrical "prong" on the heater. I removed the heater and found a hairline crack. Unable to solder/braze/weld the crack, I applied a liberal mound of epoxy. Once it had dried, I filled the heater and verified that it was drip-free. However, it wasn't until next day that I went back outside to reinstall it.

I got it back in place and turned the tub on - immediately, another FL error appeared. The circulation pump was running so I suspected the pipes had frozen overnight. I removed the pump and while it was inside thawing out I took my propane space heater and applied heat to the area where the inlet pipe (to the pump) is exposed. After about fifteen minutes, the blockage freed-up, and water flowed. I hastily re-installed the circulation pump and turned the unit back on. This time, the GFCI tripped after a few seconds. I waited a few minutes, then tried again - same outcome. This went on for another half hour or so, at which time I gave up. This time, I stuffed fiberglass insulation in the panel, secured the cover and called it quits.

Next day, I turned it on and, this time, the GFCI didn't trip. The FL error code kicked in, though, leading me to think that the insulation hadn't prevented another freeze-up after all. I should note that I don't recollect whether the circulation pump was running at this time. Once more, I took the circulation pump and heater off (and set aside indoors) and thawed the pipes with my propane heater. Once I had water flowing I reinstalled everything and turned it on again... the GFCI was okay but, the FL error code persisted. This time, I know for certain that the circulation pump was not running.

An adequate level and a clean filter ruled both out as possible causes so I then turned my attention to the pressure switch. However, while looking for information on how to test it, it became apparent that in my setup the circulation pump should run all the time - regardless of whether the pressure switch is faulty or not. With that in mind, I tested for voltage on the circuit board. Instead of 120v, I saw 19.6v... I disconnected/reconnected power and took readings three or four times, all with very similar results. I then removed the circulation pump and direct-wired it momentarily, verifying that it hadn't died on me (which it hadn't.) I reinstalled the pump and that's where things stand at present (FL error code, no power to circulation pump from circuit board, pump not running.)

In checking for circulation pump power (on the circuit board) I also checked for power to the ozone generator, and found that it had 119.5v. I tried to find out when power should be available to the ozone generator for my setup, as I'd seen several posts in which some systems run the generator 24/7, and others only when the main jet motor runs. However, I couldn't find anything. It was at that point that I ripped everything out again, this time including the circuit board (and its enclosure) - intending to take it somewhere to have it tested. I then inspected the board to see if I could see any sign of visible damage... but saw nothing abnormal. What I did see, though, is that the black wire to the circulation pump is attached to the ozone generator terminal, and vice versa. On the 27100, the circulation pump terminal is J14, and the ozone is J19 so, in my case, the pump is seemingly incorrectly wired to J19 and the generator to J14.

If, in my setup, both the circulation pump and the ozone generator are both intended to run 24/7 then somehow I've inexplicably lost power to the ozone terminal (J19.) On the other hand, if the ozone generator is intended to run only while the jet motor runs, then I don't know how the circulation pump was ever able to function - which it did, both when I tested it in the summer and again more recently - albeit for only one day.

As a final note, I also read this afternoon that I might solve my power problem by simply "hard wiring" the circulation pump (ideally from some other 120v terminal on the circuit board but, in principle, any 120v source would suffice.) In that regard, I see that there's a "free" terminal on the board - J17, labeled "Blk AC." As I mentioned above, I have the board out of the tub at present so I can't test to see what voltage may exist on this terminal. If anyone knows what this terminal exists for, its voltage and whether it's "always on..."

I'd dearly appreciate any input/assistance anyone can give me.

Thanks in advance,
Gary

Many D1 spas come wired that way (ozone/circ pump wires crossed). Not sure why. Both run 24/7 (or at least at the same time depending on the tub). I'd put the board back in and test that terminal you described. Just be sure you don't accidentally hook your pump up to 240v. You could also consider tying the ozone and circ pump lines together.

Thanks for the input. I am away from home at present, so won't be able to reinstall the board and test whether I have power on J17 -and what its voltage is- until early next week. Regarding your 240v caution: the Laing pump is rated at 240v, single phase, so even if J17 shows 240v, I should be able to hook it up safely, correct? I recall my friend having replaced the pump a couple of years ago, but can't say why the service guy replaced the original (blue) 120v Laing with a (red) 240v. Any ideas? What would the operational outcome be, when running a 240v rated motor with 120v? Would it run at half-speed?

And, any ideas as to why the J19 terminal lost power, and how to troubleshoot/repair it? True -and as you confirmed- I can simply wire the pump to another power source but, I'd still like to know what went wrong in the first place...

Thanks

The pump would run at less than 1/2 speed. The 240v pump was probably just what he had available. No big deal as long as you know what you have and how it's wired.

The terminal probably lost power due to a bad relay, but there's no telling from here.

Having replaced everything (the circulator pump is now running (continuously) off that J17 terminal (120v), here's where things stand now: The water temperature dropped to 44 degrees while I was gone and the inlet line to the circulation pump froze. To circumvent the issue, I attached a garden hose to the pump and stuck the other end into the tub. I then found that the outlet into the tub was significantly blocked (barely a trickle) which -I assumed- was enough to cause the FL code to display. I filled a five gallon container with hot water, moved the garden hose end into it and -presto- the ice block melted and I had normal flow from the outlet. I switched the hose back into the tub, turned the breaker off/on, and hoped for a good start-up. Nope - FL code again, despite having perfectly adequate flow from the circulation pump through the heater. I then took the red and black leads off the pressure/flow switch terminals and jumped them; nothing changed. I next tested for voltage across them and found ~1.6v. Shouldn't this be 120v?

What next? Your continued assistance is much appreciated.

You just want continuity across the flow switch leads. If you jumped the flow terminals at the board and it still reads FL it's likely that you'll have to replace the board.

I tried jumping the pressure switch wires again and, this time, the FL code cleared. Not sure why it didn't before... maybe I didn't wait long enough? Anyway, with the FL code gone, the topside panel heater light illuminated. But - no heat.

I just tested for power and am seeing 0 volts across the heater legs. I manually closed the contact on the heater relay yet saw no spark. I did likewise to both hi-limit (and the spa light) relays - same outcome. However, both the low and high jet relays sparked, telling me that they are energized. The pump did nothing but hum, though, telling me (I think) that it is now frozen solid (after several days of minus 23 degree nights here in Maine.) But, that's a different issue...

Is there anything else I can check for, to identify what could be at fault?

Thanks.

Buy a new spa....I'm having EXACTLY the same problem. I looked at new ones this week, and with the economy in shambles they are giving them away. $9000 Cal spas for $4600. I replaced my circ pump. I keep getting the FL indication, hit the jet button, starts to pump and heat, turns off after like 30 minutes and says "OH" = overheat. Spa temp is 44. Had the whole frozen pipe thing. Used a space heater on it and have literally been going through the same hell you have, and now my heater seems to be leaking. I think I'm gonna scrape up the money for a new one and be done with this crap. Good luck to ya.

I finally bit the bullet and assumed I'd (literally) baked the board, and sent it off for repair (along with the transformer and pressure switch, for diagnosis.) Fingers crossed... will assume this topic can soon be closed. Thanks, Spishex, for your guidance.