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Pump 1 turns off before heating the water then gets a flow error (3 flashing dots)

I have a 2003 Charisma tub (Lx1500). I purchased it used. I filled the tub and fired it up. First pump 2 would not push water. I cleared pump 2 of debris and it began working. Then when I powered up the unit it would turn off then on alternately every 1 -2 seconds. I removed the blower from the circuit and then the unit stayed powered up. Now my pump 1 will not stay on for any significant time. I set my temp to 94 degrees with water temp of 80 degrees. The heater turns on, pump 1 runs for a period of time (this varies from 1 to 2 hours in rare cases to just a few minutes in others) them shuts off giving me a 3 flashing dot error (flo error or high limit error). If I jumper the flo switch out, pump 1 does the same thing but I do not get the 3 flashing dot error ( because the flo sensor is shorted ). When pump 1 runs on low speed I measure 235VAC between the black and red going to the pump and 120VAC frm red to gnd, and black to ground respectively and 0 VAC from white to ground. When the motor turns off, I measure 235 VAC from white to black and 120VAC from red to gnd, black to gnd and white to gnd respectively. I'm not sure what causes the motor to start or shut down (a signal from the control panel or the motor is tripping itself). Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have a degree in electronics from the mid 80's so I'm familiar with troubleshooting circuits but since I dont do this work everyday and do not know exactly how the system should work its been difficult for me to pinpoint the problem. I would hate to buy a new motor just to find I have another issue. Any ideas on the cause, additional troubleshooting that can isolate the issues or information on how the circuit works would be helpful.

Posted by on 2007-08-07 03:09:22. PA (10543)

Don't measure things to ground as ground is not a power supply reference. It is there for protection only.

Next:

Quote:


When the motor turns off, I measure 235 VAC from white to black.



If you've got 235 VAC between White and Black, or White and Red, and your motor isn't turning, then your motor is dead.

Posted by on 2007-08-13 00:30:44. Metro Atlanta, Georgia Region (10629)

Based on your reply:

"If you've got 235 VAC between White and Black, or White and Red, and your motor isn't turning, then your motor is dead."

What would make the motor shut down (dead)? Is there an internal shut down feature in the motor itself? Is the motor reset by a Power On reset (because it does work again after POR)?

Bottom Line: Are you telling me that the symptoms I am experiencing are due to a bad motor? Would you reccommend getting a new motor ar testing the current motor and having it rebuilt? Thanks for any info you can provide.

Posted by on 2007-08-28 14:23:20. PA (10732)
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