Hi,
I have a FLO 1 message on the display and I took out the switch and tested with an ohm meter....got a reading between 3.5 and 4.5 with the switch open, and 0.0 when I held it closed. I was told that was how it should read and so I put it back in and have the same Flo 1 message. Is there something else it could be? Was I told wrong about the test and could the switch be bad? I ran it without the filters in, so it isn't a problem with pass-thru there.
Thanks in advance for any help.

You shouldn't be getting any continuity with the switch open. Try restarting the spa with the switch unplugged and see if you get the same error. If so, be sure the switch is oriented properly. There should be an arrow on it that should point in the direction of the water flow.

If you get a different error (probably FLO 2), you'll need to replace the switch.

Hi spishex......thanks so much for the reply.

I still get the flo1 message with the switch unplugged. When I test with the switch in place and breaker off, I get a reading of 8.0 to 9.0 on the ohm meter...(when I reverse the leads (red & black) it jumps to 10.0 to 11.0)

Spa is a Luxxor Platinum model bought new in '95 (I'm the second owner)

Does the error show up as soon as you turn the tub on or only after the pump has started?

The next thing I would do is wait until the pump is running and then jump the flow switch terminals. If you've still got the error then it's a bad board.

I jumped the terminals after the jets kicked on and the flo1 went away and I can feel warm water flowing into the tub...when I had jumped the terminals before, I did it before I powered the spa back up and I got a flo2 warning. Does this mean the flo switch is bad? If it is the switch, will it do any damage if I run it like this until I get a switch?

Don't run it like that. Odds are you wouldn't be able to after the first pump cycle anyway since it would give you a flo2.

Jumping it before the pump comes on gives you a 'flo closed' error. The tub realizes that the pump is off, but for some reason the safety equipment is saying otherwise.

It looks like the switch is bad.

Spishex..... Thanks again for all the help....I'll go ahead and replace the flow/reed switch. I was able to get it heated up to 104 with the terminals jumped....now the kids can use it while I wait for the new switch to get here.....(my 17 year old relies on it to recover from football games and we've got a Section Championship game coming up tomorrow) If you ever need any video advice, I'd love to return the favor...d:^) " title="Very Happy" /> Happy Holidays...

" title="Very Happy" /> Happy to help.

Me again...I ordered a new flo switch, installed it and I have the same FLO 1 error message. Help!

Are you sure it's aligned properly with the water flow? Check the resistance on it again to make sure it is opening and closing properly when the pump is on/off.

It is aligned correctly...with the pumps both on and off, it reads 00.0 (no resistance?) With the breaker shut off, I get a reading in the mid 16.0's

...also, as I understand it, the ozone air pump is what creates the circulation for the heater to work, so it would make sense that the flow switch wouldn't have any resistance whether the main pumps are on or off. Is that correct?

Regarding the jets being on, that depends on how it is plumbed. Some circ pumps have their own dedicated suction, others are fed through the jet plumbing. When the tub was heating before was that only with the jets on?

No...it heated without the jets on.

Hmmm. Let's go over all this again.

FLO1 = No water flow detected when the pump is on and heat is called for.
FLO2 = Water flow detected when the pump is off and no heat required.

If you turn the spa off, jump the terminals on the board for the switch, and turn back on you get a FLO2 as is normal.
If you turn the spa on with the switch disconnected, wait for the circ pump to kick on and FLO1 to appear, and then jump the terminals, FLO1 goes away and you get heat.
With the spa on and both jets off but the circ pump on, you get 0.0 continuity reading. With the spa off you get somewhere around 16.0 (should go to OL, but if that was an issue you'd be getting FLO2).

Is all that right?

Where are you testing continuity for the switch? At the plug? If you're getting 0.0 at the plug, then plugging it in should be as good as jumping the terminals so a good first step would be to turn the spa on with the switch unplugged, wait for FLO1 to appear, and then plug it in.

Correct on everything...I did try turning spa off then on, and the when the jets kicked on I plugged in the flow switch but the flo1 stayed on. I am testing at the back of the plug....the plug that connects to the board...there are exposed wires there. I don't know why I would get a different result from jumping the terminals than I get from connecting the flow switch but that's what's happening. I would think I'd get an OL or at least some numbers if there was a problem with the wiring or connection. I'll check my results again. I also hooked up another air pump (an aquarium air pump) just in case the spa air pump wasn't putting out enough air to circulate the water. There's also a question now if it's actually heating. It indicates that it is, but it doesn't seem to be putting out warm water. here's a link to a post from someone awile back and about halfway down is a diagram that seems to illustrate my system pretty well. (I couldn't figure out how to post just the image) Spa-Repair/Digital-Spa-Pack/Dimension-California-Ultra-Crystal-Pure-Balboa_153.html

When you say it indicates that it's heating, you mean with the terminals jumped? Very interesting system. I've never had the pleasure of working on one. Since your flow switch is (apparently) closing, I'll assume all is ok with the air pump. Are you seeing bubbles as described in the other thread? Did the new flow switch come complete with a new cord and plug or did you have to use your old one? Double check your results, but if they're right and jumping the terminal makes the error go away, we're not left with much other than a loose connection with the plug. " title="Confused" />

Yes...with the terminals jumped,I get no error message and the display indicates the system is heating. I am getting the bubbles described (with the aquarium pump).....and I did have to splice the old plug onto the new switch. Is it possible something happened to the heater due to jumping the terminals?

Check the resistance on the heater. Should be between 10-15 ohms. If it reads OL, check to see if there's a high limit reset on the heater itself. Running the heater with the terminals jumped could harm the heater or trip the high limit if there was no circulation.

Take a close look at the plug itself. Maybe even "plug it in" to two separate wires and check continuity across them instead of at the plug itself. Sometimes wires will jiggle loose from the barbs on the plug that pinch in and actually touch the conductor part of the wire.

I just re-tested the flow switch and with it unplugged and taking readings from the front of the plug and at the splice, I get 00.0 on the meter. Then I cut the plug off, tested each side and tested both terminals with each wire end. Got 00.0 for both matching wire end/plug terminal and got OL when I cross-checked each terminal with the other wire end. I got the same 00.0 reading when I checked the flow switch from the bare wire ends.
The heater tested at just over 15 (15.2).
The flow switch appears to be working except when I connect it to the board (???)
I'm stumped.....

Switch works. Board works. There has to be something going on with that plug. You might consider a trip to radioshack or some such place to see if they have a replacement.

Thanks again for your help & patience....it'll be a couple of days before I can get back to trying to figure this out. Radio Shack doesn't carry the type plug & I've got a few days work out of town. Is it possible to get that 15ohm reading with a heater that doesn't work? The High Limit reset for this model is just a thermostat adjustment, but now I'm not getting any heat.

If it's reading 15 ohms it works, but it might not be getting power. Check the volts on the heater lines. If I can find a source for that plug I'll post it. Maybe we could also solicit additional comments from someone more familiar with this cool circulation system of yours.

After running overnight, I'm definitely not getting heat. I tested both wires from the heater and they both showed 120v. There's a third wire coming from the back of the heater that I haven't traced yet..not sure where it goes. It doesn't show up on the wiring diagram, but the heater was replaced a few years ago and I'm not sure if it's a stock heater.

You need to test both lines together to be sure you're getting 240v. You may have a relay that isn't closing, leaving you with only 120v which would show up on both terminals to ground.

Hi...I'm back in town. I jumped both heater wires at the terminal block and only got 115v, so it looks like I need to test the relays. It's not obvious from the wiring diagram on the panel which are the relays. Any direction on where to look and if they are likely to be soldered to the main board? " title="Confused" /> Thanks

Yes, it would be one of the soldered on relays.

Maybe I'm in over my head at this point....

I don't even do circuitry work myself. If you can determine which relay is not closing properly, then there's a chance you can find someone local to replace it for you. If you can't, you can either pay to have it sent off and tested or just purchase a new board. After shipping, labor, etc., some new boards end up being about the same price so see what yours runs before getting too far into it. If you need help finding the part/price let me know.

Hi, My issue with the FLO2 error is that for the last 3 water changes, I have it after every water change. I have a Maxxus from 2004. Now that I am on my 3rd switch I decided to do some experimenting. Also - for background - I also just replaced my circulation pump because it went south " title="Sad" />. Anyways, as soon as I turn on the tub, I see the circ pump force the flow switch closed, and I get a FLO2 error. If I kink the hose behind the switch while the tub is turnes on, there is no error except for FLO. If I kink the hose and turn on the tub and then release the kink, all is fine - until the next filter cycle. Does this mean that there is some kind of circuit issue and the ciculation pump is triggering the flow switch too early??? Again, this is a brand new flow switch, and has only been installed in my tub since the last water change (2.5 months). This has happened twice before, and replaceing the switch fixes the issue until the next water change. HELP???