1994 (?) Blue Ridge (Pre-Jacuzzi)
Model 600-66
Air controls on top with thermostat on top
220V

I accidently ripped out one of the wires from the control box that goes to the pressure switch when changing out my heater.
There were 2 wires from the pressure switch to the control box. The black one goes into a molded plug that connects with another molded plug that goes to the control panel on top of spa.
The orange one from the pressure switch is the one I ripped out and can not find where to hook it back up.
There are no empty connectors where a wire got ripped out from.
I have pictures of the control box at: http://www.ifabs.com/spa/spa.html

I have everything back together, and everything works except the heater since I can't wire the pressure switch back up.
1) Does anyone have a similar hot tub that they could tell me where the wires from the pressure switch go?
2) Or a picture of the inside of a similar control box that might show where they go?
3) Or, how else can I complete the circuit from the pressure switch that allows the heater to turn on?

Thanks for any help anyone can give!

It's got to be part of the heater relay circuit. Usually, it will either be energized by low speed, a timer, toggle switch, low speed relay, and go through the T-stat before heading back to the heater relay. A little reverse engineering, a meter, some understanding, and a little patience, or, just call a pro.

Good luck!

~Swine

Hi Swine, Thanks for the reply. I'm learning more and more. I traced all the wires and drew a diagram (best I could) of all the components and where wires go to/from. Not sure that I called all the parts the right name, but the photo below the diagram should help translate. I have uploaded it to http://www.ifabs.com/spa/wiring.html I have continuity between the black pressure switch wire and the red wire that goes to the right side of contactor (coil?) Logic tells me that the orange wire that is ripped out, must go somewhere to complete the circuit so the contactor engages. I'm thinking that it has to be to the left side of contactor (coil?) where all the white wires are, but my logic stops here. Not sure where to put the orange wire to complete circuit to contactor. Hopefully the diagram helps more, so I know where to hook up the orange wire from the pressure switch. Thanks so much for your help. I don't mean to be a pain. (Now you know why it was a woman that drove you to drink!) " title="Very Happy" /> Dawn

I really wish I could help more ops:" title="Embarassed" /> If it helps, the relays have 2 terminals that energize a magnetic "coil" on the relay, that will open and close the contactor. Generally, the coil load is extremely small, and the load on the contactor is much higher. If you can determine which terminals are the coils on the relay's, it will start to make a lot more sense, an the logic of the board will be a little easier to decipher. It really isn't that complicated, but can be overwhelming if you're not familiar with all the components, how they're supposed to work, and what's normal and what isn't.

Aahhhh, a nice 106 degrees! " title="Very Happy" /> " title="Very Happy" /> " title="Very Happy" /> Hooked up the orange wire to the black load side of the GFCI that's in the control box. Barb at Spa Parts Net, who I ordered the heat element from, determined that hooking the orange wire to there should work, even if just for testing. She was very kind and knows her stuff. Everything works as it should. Low pump and heat on timer, high jets and heat, thermostat turns off when it's at temp, it's all working fine. I know that it was not originally on the GFCI, but it works. I am going to look at that terminal block and see if I can determine where else there I could put it. (Probably on the very end on the left at top) But, maybe I just leave it and button it up and call it good. Swine, I thank you so very much for all your help and replies. I have learned a lot, and would never have attempted any of it without your patience and help. " title="Very Happy" /> Dawn

I would be a little nervous just putting it on the GFCI- maybe use the low speed wire instead of the GFCI " title="Smile" /> Good luck, ~Swine

OK, my low side only works off of timer, but I'll see what I can figure out. Otherwise, I'll find another load side to put it in on.
What would be a possible bad scenario with leaving it on the GFCI? (Just so I know what to watch for or be careful of until I find a proper place for it, or just shut it off until I do.) Thanks Swine!

Dawn

Don't worry about it- For some reason I was concerned it was a 110 volt spa. 220, you'll be fine " title="Smile" />