Hi First post here. So lets get started with the subject and you guys can fill in the blanks. A friend of mine was moving and he had this Hot tub that they have not used in a couple of years. His complaint was that the heater kept burning out, he mumbled something about maybe it was the PH levels? " title="Shocked" /> I have never owned a hot tub and decided I might give it a try as he was offering this unit free. All I had to do was help him move it to my place. The unit is a Hot Spring Sovereign SN#I-322511 it is a 120volt model and the cover was pretty much shot. Knowing that the heater "remove and in a box" was bad and the circulating pump also removed and bad. Upon further inspection one of the receptacles was burned and melted beyond use. I think it is the one to the heater or the circulation pump. The T-stat needs replacing as the copper tube was cut when heater was removed. Maybe that's why he kept burning out the heater? No High limit reset. Any way I have now got around $400.00 in parts ordered and would like some advice. Do I keep plugging along until I get results, saying I should not go over my $500 budget. Or should I just turn this thing into a raised bed garden. The cover is also trash. I had access to some 4X8 sheet of 2 inch pink closed foam board that I had planed to cross form and contact cement to form a cover. Might look WT but I bet 4 inches of insulation does the trick. Oh, and I have not even thought about how to treat and maintain the water yet, most likely there is advice here I can look up also. Thanks

You have a 3rd quarter 1992.
If overall the shell and cabinet are good you probably don't have much more to spend.
Replace the receptacles that are burnt. The circ pump is the far left on the control box. Part #'s - Heater receptacle 30163 - Circ pump 30165 and jet pump 10408.
The thermostat tube goes in a dry well as well as the spa high limit. The heater high limit tube goes in the end of the heater. Part #'s - thermostat 75077 - heater high limit 30209 and spa high limit 30208.
If you have a new heater and circ pump you aren't going to spend too much. These saps can last forever - I have a 1991 Classic model and it still goes strong.
You will find a lot of chemical info - bunch of great people in here.

Thanks for the response Pete.
I should have most of the component parts in by the end of the week. At that time I will attempt to install every thing back to original. The pumps where removed when I acquired the Spa, So I am just going off the basic photo in the owners manual.

If I get to a certain point that I have a question, i could take some photo's and attach them to an email to you. It really makes me feel great knowing I have someone who can answer my question on this unit.

One question now. saying I get everything looking good, and there are no leaks and the Spa is ready to go. What should I do first off with the water? I was reading where I should do a Bio flush first?
Thanks

1.Replace the receptacles that are brunt: Have two ordered, but just need to replace one and will do that no problem there. 2. The circ pump is the far left on the control box: Looking at the box open after removal, or left to right looking at the box as mounted? 3. The thermostat tube goes in a dry well as well as the spa high limit: Wha? " title="Shocked" /> " title="Shocked" /> There is a Thermostat? Where is this located in the control box, all i noticed was a 1/8" copper tube from the Tstat switch that goes into the heater core. Please explain. 4. The heater high limit tube goes in the end of the heater: Now this is the tube that is coming from the Tstat switch, right? Did not replace the Jet pump. It is supposed to be okay " title="Rolling Eyes" /> I hope. Thanks

You should have two copper tubes that go into the drywell in the back of the heater.

The thermostat is the device that protrudes through the black control box that the actual temperature control knob attaches to. It should have a copper capillary tube with a bulb on the end that goes into the heater.

The second copper tube is part of the heater high limit red button that comes through the side of the control box. It goes from this high limit switch and into the heater as well.

Dan, thanks a lot for the information. I was wondering about that. So the thermostat Cap tube is connected to what in the control box? The round push in to set temperature wheel?
So I need one of these if the cap tube is missing?
http://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=75077

That's it.

The circ pump is the far left plug when looking at the box mounted. The Heater plug should be behind the Jet pump plug also with box mounted.

There are actually 3 capillary tubes. One goes to the push in dial t-stat - this bulb goes in a drywell (not the heater). I think the drywell is on the front base board. The tub high limit goes into the same drywell. Put in the t-stat bulb first following closely with the tub high limit (a thinner bulb). The other of the 3 is the heater high limit tube. This bulb goes in the end of the heater.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO CRIMP THESE TUBES

You had asked by email about plumbing. There is an elbow coming out of the floor with a 3/4" barb. This is where you connect the suction side of the circ pump. Then the outlet of the circ pump goes to the heater (it doesn't matter which side of the heater). Then from the heater to an outlet on the wall near the light lens (all 3/4" vinyl hose). Try not to make any big loops going up with the hose - it will make it harder for the circ pump to prime.
The small 1/4" barb on the heater is a bleed line that should attach to another one, probably a nipple on the elbow or tied in with the jet pump drain nipple (all 1/4" vinyl hose).

Wow, OK that right there ought to get me going in the right direction. I did not see this post before I sent you an email. Hopefully the Cap tubes going into the base board are not damaged. I have taken good care not to bend them. However dealing with other such equipment in my line of work I know that they are so delicate and are charged with Florine? of some kind of gas that will escape if tube has hole. Wonder if there is anyway to test these? Previous owner had problems with heater burning out. Could be the thermostat Cap tube was bad?

also the plumbing description is right on. I should be able to hook that all up just fine. Just wondering about the air lines I can see above the control box. They sure look nasty dirty inside them.

Should I do some kind of flush on this spa?
Thanks Loads!

There is not much you can do with the airlines. They won't be a problem. I would super chlorinate after you get it up and running, let it run a couple hours, then drain & refill.

The heater high limit is what could be bad. It trips when the heater water gets to 150. If this high limit fails it could burn the heater. I'm thinking it's fine and the other guy burned the heater by dry firing it or not keeping his water balanced.

Bending the tubes is OK just don't crimp them.

Finally got all the parts in. Circ pump works, Jet pump works. I can hear the thermostat clicking on and off when adjusting the wheel settings.
Question. I filled up the Spa at around 9PM with 65 deg F tap water. How long will it take the new heater to get the temp up to say at least 100 deg F?
Thanks

110V HotSpring spas heat about 1 1/2 - 2 degrees an hour. If you don't think it's heating you can turn up the t-stat, unplug the circ pump for 15 seconds then plug in the circ pump while feeling the outlet in the spa, you should feel heat at that point. If no heat then test voltage at the heater receptacle.

Looks like it's working though, started at 9pm with 65deg f now 8am and temp is up to 81deg f. That's about 1 1/2 deg an hour.

going to do a Bio flush and drain. Right now I have 4 inches of the pink closed cell foam as a temp cover. Looking to purchase a new cover next. Wondering if I should go to the dealer here and order one. I think they quoted around $300.
Thanks

spa working great! Except wondering why Moto message is not moving up and down. I replaced the blue tubing. What's up?

Make sure the air control is wide open and the diverter is not in the middle position. Pull out the filters to see if it's low flow.
If you have plenty of air coming out of the jet then I would unscrew the jet and hold it by the head so it dangles - if it has a permanent curve and doesn't hang straight then the jet needs to be replaced.