i just recently required a 1999 Tiger river spa model L siberian
the power was shut off and the whole thing froze, now it leaks pretty bad.
it seems to have numorus leaks, i propped the thing on its side and started digging.......wow what a work out, but my question is, is there an easy way to remove the foam since the whole thing is filled with it?
and what is the easiest way to get that stuff from around the pipes. its like the foam is harder around the pipes.

Around the pipes, a Wire brush on the end of your drill or dremel will work OK, it won't cut through the flex pipe unless you really hold it against there. There is no easy way. Lots of dust might ruin the drill, so go easy. Good luck, you're going to need it " title="Exclamation" />

You are in for a real fun time. I've fixed about 75 or more frozen tubs with full foam insulation. A 99 Tiger River has check valves in the pump lines that are prone to freezing/breaking if not winterized properly. I smash some of the hard bottom coating first with a hammer to loosen it up, then use a few different types of pry bars and enourmous screw drivers. For the harder foam around the pipes I use this: http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/u578494# not a great picture but it is a pry bar/scrapper which is sharp on the 90 degree end. Did you find any leaks yet? The hard part is that sometimes the pipe that you have dug out may be split but you can't even tell until there is water in it. The best method is to safely elevate the tub with blocks or something and try to find the leak with the tub running...otherwise it may be impossible or at least extremely hard to repair. I have plumbing diagrams and can point out some of the spots that I would look at first. I can post them tomorrow when I get to work if you are interested.

Thanks for the info guys!
any pictures would be a big help.
What am i getting myself into? even tho i am starting to expose the pipes they seem to be glued in place, cant move anything. i did put water in the unit and have seen a couple of leaks one really big one and a couple smaller ones, i am about half way around the tub now but as i get closer to the shell the harder it is to dig. i just hope i dont have to dig the whole thing out.

here we go.........
i found the big leak, its about 20" long, the flex pipe burst in between the check valve and a "T" fitting, now the problem is the "T" fitting, it has a couple of adaptors on it, it has another check valve at one port, and a big manifold at the other end where 1/2" pipes group together, is it possable to cut the tee fitting and glue a bushing in where the group of lines come in so i can adapt another tee into that location?
or do i keep digging to expose that cluster of lines?

Are you saying that the Tee and the check valve are not cracked and it is just the flexible 1.5" pipe that is split in between them? If so I would check it out more closely. The check valves and pvc fittings almost always split as well, you just can't always tell at first.

Here is the link(if it works) to the plumbing diagrams: temp_732515584535.JPG (0.12 MB) The check valves are not always in the exact position as shown on the diagram

Not sure I follow what you are saying with the bushing. I always cut everything out that is cracked and use couplings to put back together. You just have to make sure you leave yourself the easiest spot to make the last connection at. (usually the longest section of pipe so you have room to bend the pipes out to fit them into the coupling)

Hope this helps...good luck!

***I can't get the attachment onto this forum, I can email the diagrams to you if you need them

I plan on replacing the check valves,no visible signs of breakage but replace anyway, my idea is to cut the tee fitting on half of the tee, slide a bushing in,
put a coupler in and add a new tee fitting. this way i will not have to replace the manifold, i just need to search for a bushing that will fit the ID of the pipe tee then take it from 1 1/2" up to 2" and then back down to 1 1/2'' so i dont reduce the flow. i was not able to view the attachment, so if you could, please email them to me. thank you so much for all of your help.

What is your email address? You can send it to me through Private Message if you want.

your year spa has multiple densities of foam, seeing you'll be draining and refilling a few times, it would help in your instance to use a similiar dye we have access to. HotSpring has a blue food color dye to help localize leaks like yours. the foam will hold some of the dye, leading back to the leak(s). You add it to the spa water once it's full. It will not stain. If you get some of the undiluted dye on the shell it can stain.
You can also go and purchase 4-5 6"x6"x8' pressure treated posts to set in back down on prior to refilling to better see where your problem(s) lie.
Glad to see your not down sizing the plumbing, smart man.

my email address is s.lavin@excite.com as for the hot tub, it is at work on a trailer, i have been lifting one side at a time to gain access to the bottom and dig, i work on it after work on my time, then put it back out in the yard till the next night. only a couple hours a night if i can get to it. its a 3 ton trailer so i can fill it to check for leaks and it will support the weight when the water is in it, i have onle been able to fill it a 1/3 of the way before it startes leaking, and from what i have found so far in the huge crack, i wont be able to fill it any more till i make this repair first.

email sent...

Thanks for the prints Dan..........
the picture is close and you are correct on the location,but its slightly different. it would be alot easier if the manifold was hooked to that flex pipe, but they have it directly hooked to the tee fitting near the filter. its gonna be a project but i will try to get the fittings today.

heres the big leak, the whole pipe is cracked down the center from one side to the other, and both sides at one end exploded

this is the correct one

That picture looks all too familiar to me...I see it in my sleep sometimes! Yeah, the check valves are always butted up against the tee fittings and elbows even though the diagrams show them in the middle of the flexible PVC lines. Makes things much more fun.

Good luck and let us know how things progress.