Hello,

I have been following the issues in this forum and they are great advice. I just bought a 2001 Hot Springs Grandee and it is wired correctly. The problem that I am presently encountering is the following:

The recirc pump is working and running with no problems.
The IQ2020 control board is staying on.
The Freshwater Ozone is working and providing the necessary ozone.

Now the problems:
The no-fault 6000 heater is not coming on at all.
The jet pumps are not coming on at all. I can hear the clicking of the pumps as needed and the red LED in the IQ2020 board goes on with no problem.

There is power to the heater and pump terminal on the IQ2020 board.

Where exactly is the so-called red button reset switch that the manual on page 52 is calling for to be pressed? I could not find this button anywhere on this heater.

Any ideas on what is going on here? I know that the problem might be minor, but I need to know, before I call for service from the hot springs dealer (which I want to avoid).

Thanks in advance.

I'd check for proper voltage, especially at the 50 breaker that supplies power to the spa sub-panel.

The button on the heater is nearly impossible to find, but has nothing to do with the jet pumps.

My first guess is that the main 50 amp breaker is defective, and only supplying one good hot line to the spa subpanel, while the other hot is dead. The control box circuitry still works off of 110, so if you only have one hot leg going you, it will act as though it's working properly, and the 110v components will work (circ pump and ozone), but the 220v components (jet pumps and heater) will not operate. The pump relays will still click.

Has it been recently re-wired/moved, etc?

I will check the main breaker (50 AMP) again. This is a brand new installation. I did not think about that. I will try in a little while and I will post my findings. I have also scheduled a visit with the Hot Spring vendor for next week. I will check this out right now and if this works, I will cancel that appointment.

Thanks again!!!

If you can, post a pic's of the sub-panel wiring, as well as the main terminal block on the spa " title="Smile" />

Ok, here is what I just found out (I will be posting the images that have been requested later on tonight).

Once I press the JET1 button, the nuetral terminal for pump1 in the IQ2020 board starts feeding 120 volts, which it should be fed in the hot terminal, so what is going here? Why is the IQ2020 board feeding 120 volts in the nuetral line instead of the hot line?

Any ideas?

Thanks

There is no neutral on the jet pump. Both the white and black wires should be hot. Each should read ~120v to ground, AND ~240volts across when the pump is energized.


I look forward to the pic's.

Ok, Here are the pictures that you have requested; by the way the heater is working fine. It brought the temperature of the water to 103 F and it looked very tempting " title="Razz" /> Anyways, here is the first photo In the second photograph, I am showing the connections to the jet pumps and now I understand what you are telling me here. My question is why the clicking from the relays and the red LED that comes up, but no action from the jet pumps. I am looking forward to your answer, please let me know. I really want to start using this puppy. Thanks in advance.

I forgot to mentioned that I checked the main breaker and re-seated the wires in the 50 AMP breaker and checked the power flowing from the breaker and it was 240 volts.

Is there a seperate switch on the jet pumps that was turned off for transportation? I saw a little knob and I don't know if I need to turn this on, any ideas?

Thanks for the pic's " title="Smile" /> What voltage do you get between terminals 2 and 4 on the main terminal block? Place the meter leads where you put the screwdriver to pry open the wire stops- if the wires aren't secure, it will lead us in the wrong direction. Are the wires tight and secure? Sorry if some of these questions may sound dumb, but it's the quickest way to fix this issue. Could you also take a pic of the sub-panel wiring? What could cause clicking relays, but no jet action? Either both jet pumps failed at the same time (not likely), both jet pump circuitry on the main PCB failed (not likely), or the pumps aren't getting the correct voltage (most likely). We'll know soon enough " title="Very Happy" /> Did you have a chance to measure voltage between the white and black wires of the jet pump? And no, there is no switch on the jet pumps.

Between 2 and 4 in the main wiring block, I get 120 volts. Now at the jet 1 and jet 2 pump, I get 120 volts Here are some photos of the sub-panel: This is a connecticut electric 60Amp (model SPA-260) sub-panel with a 20A GFCI and ground sensing loop for lighting strikes. If based on what you are telling and thinking where you are going with this, it sounds like I need to pass 120V into one of the terminals (either 2 or 4) you tell me, since I have both of these wires connected to the sub-panel 15AMP switch, so it sounds like I need to move one of these wires over to T3 or T4 connector in the power block, I am assuming that I will put red with red and the blue wire (#10) with the black wire that I have, am I correct in that assumption? Thanks

The wiring is a mess ops:" title="Embarassed" /> Here's what you can do. In the sub-panel, take the small 12 guage red, and move it from wherever it's attached (can't tell because the pic didn't quite show) and attach it to T4 on the interlock relay (where the large 10 guage red wire is attached, both red wires will now be on T4) Now, disconnect the 12 guage blue wire from wherever it's attached (can't tell because the pic didn't quite show) and attach it to T3 on the interlock relay (Where the 10 guage black wire is attached, both the 10 guage black and the 12 guage blue will be on T3) The black wire on T1 will probably be a lonely soldier, just cap and tape it so it won't brush anything. Then, turn on the power, and go to the main terminal block on the spa control box. Your readings should be as follows: terminals 1 and 3 -->240v terminals 2 and 4 -->240v any terminal (1-4) and 5 --->120V Terminal 5 and ground ---> 0v If this is what you get, turn it on and enjoy! One more note: The neutral is pigtailed to the ground in the subpanel. If you can figure out which wire is supposed to be neutral and which is ground (why oh why did someone run a black as either a Neutral or Ground!!) you can put the neutral wire on the neutral bar in the subpanel, and remove the black jumper that connects Neutral and Ground. Not the end of the world, and it will probably work fine the way it is, but it's so easy to fix, I would.

Thanks for your help on this!! I will do this tomorrow morning and I will post the results. The neutral being black is what the electrician that I hired chose to do, I even asked about this. The wire is marked with a white tape band at both ends everywhere. We (myself and the electrian) tried to move the neutral coming from the hot tub over to the neutral bar, but the system would not work at all. I cannot wait until there is light tomorrow morning, so that I can try your recommendations. Now I can see what you were talking about here. Thanks in advance. " title="Mr. Green" />

That did it!!! I have the hot tub running now with no problems at all. Everything is working. I cannot thank you enough. I will be coming by SpaPartsNet.com for the parts and chemicals that I am going to need for sure.

Again thanks a lot, now my kids and wife are very happy that this is functioning properly now.

Yay " title="Cool" />