Spa and Hot Tub Tech Support and Parts Sales Help is often available evenings & weekends if you can't get through in the daytime!
Concerned about the economy? Fix your spa now, most people don't need to buy a new tub! (Save Money $$$) If you're in Tampa, stop by our store at 14413 North Nebraska Ave! We have the spa parts, pumps and spa packs you need over the counter! Monday thru Friday 9-5, Saturday 9-3 We Export World Wide! Canada, Mexico, Central/South America, Europe!
|
|
| The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
| Newb to spa's, got a new used spa, and need help with a leak! |
Sorry this is long... first post.
Hello, I'm new to this forum and to spa's in general. My wife and I just bought an older spa (10-12 years old) from someone locally, moved it, and filled it up. I have no idea what the brand is, but it has a Balboa control unit/heater etc, it's an octagonal shape, 7'X7'. I installed the GFCI myself, and it was fine and seemed to be working great up until we had it up to temperature and had the jets and blower turned on for a while, at which time we noticed a small leak towards the rear of it. We traced it down (after taking some paneling off the back) to a PVC hose 90-degree connection towards the center rear of the tub that goes to what looks like a drain, but I'm not sure if that's what it really is... it goes from the drain(?) to the pipes that go up and down as you can see in the picture. We disconnected it from the drain, and we think we can see a faulty spot in the sealer around this joint in the flexible pvc pipe. Is it possible to put a new 90 degree connector onto the existing pipe, or would it be better to take out the entire piping including the several up and down turns and just replace the whole thing? If it's better to put a new end on that pipe, or just reseal it, should we have a professional do it, or is it something a handy guy can take care of? I don't mind spending a little extra here to guarantee this thing won't leak in the future, especially since we got the tub really cheap anyway(in my opinion). Also, I honestly can't see a way to get the old end off without ruining the pipe and I don't think the pipe is long enough to just lob off the end and try to put a new connector on... so maybe someone can tell us what to do here. Thanks
Robert
|
| Posted by on 2007-09-24 21:33:49. Buffalo, NY (10982) |
|
" title="Very Happy" /> Hi Robert, The pipes going up and down with the clear valve is called a Hartford loop. It's put there to help keep the water from backing up into you air blower motor..You should be able to see the valve open and close as you turn the air blower on or off. As far as the leak goes. Just get a coupling, union, st 90 degree elbow and a 2" piece of pipe to replace what your going to cut out. Cut the old piece out and dry fit your new pieces to make sure they are going to reach before you re-glue them. Make sure the oring in the union before you put it back on. Use some pipe cleaner to clean the old hose before you start gluing.
Not to hard to do.....good luck
|
| Posted by on 2007-09-25 17:21:43. (10995) |
|
So I cut off the old end, and went to buy the parts, including the elbow, and the connector. After another look, there seemed to be enough length on the flex hose to just put a new elbow and connector on without the extra pipe. The dry fitting seemed ok, so I went ahead and used the PVC cleaner followed by cement, and put it together piece by piece. Now the cement I used recommended a 30 minute cure time for applications up to 160psi, but they said to cure longer for water or higher strength applications.
So... How long is a good cure time for PVC cement in general? Is overnight ok?
Thanks,
Robert |
| Posted by on 2007-09-27 09:43:16. Buffalo, NY (11012) |
|
" title="Very Happy" /> Well if it's was mine I would have already started it up. Over night will be fine.
Good luck
|
| Posted by on 2007-09-27 16:56:53. (11019) |
|
| | | The information contained in this forum is from SpaForums.Com
and IS NOT AUTHORITATIVE advice or official commentary from SpaPartsNet or SpaBabes Incorporated. Use this information at your own risk! |
Note: Prices and Specifications subject to change without notice
|
|

|
|
|
|
Related @ SpaForums | CalSpa Model 6300 control issue... Update... 11/30/08
I took off the sides to reach the controls and it became all too (more)...
| Air Valve Replacement Beachcomber Tub Hi, I need to replace the air valve on my 2002 beachcomber 530.
While looking inside (more)...
| 3 dots flashing and already replaced the pressure switch Hi,
We have a PDC Spa, actually at one of our rental cabins, and several months ago, (more)...
| 3 dots flashing and alreay replaced the pressure switch Hi,
We have a PDC Spa, actually at one of our rental cabins, and several months ago, (more)...
| Spa pumps turn on and off Yes, when you turn it on it says FLO and the 1 pump that I turned on it's light was (more)...
| Circulation pump wiring issues. I purchased an E5 circulation pump, and the wiring instructions given to me said that (more)...
| Where to buy CalSpa Motor? Techies-
I recently replaced a 6HP pump on a CalSpa, because it had been making a (more)...
| ASI Manhattan Spa Hope you can help,
I've just got the above spa, the heating light has been flashing (more)...
|
|
|
Are you in the Tampa Bay area? Visit Our Store! 14413 N Nebraska in Tampa Florida!
| Copyright © 1997-2008 Spa Babes, Inc. Tampa, FL Sales: 1-866-364-9681 Tech Support: 1-813-235-4574 |
|
|