I just replace a faulty no-fault 6000 heater with a spare no-fault tribend heater. I might have switched the Control Thermistor location on the ports. The hot tub heated up fine but shows the incorrect temp. I went to the garage to check it and saw the power light blinking. I shut off the breakers and turned to 20 amp breaker back on.

The tub is over 108 degrees (medical therometer). It shows the incorrect temp the the digital display.

Also when I turn the temp down the ready light comes on but it is still hotter than the exact temp. To add the heater light stays on as well. When I tuen the tub temp doen the thermostat does make the temp led light go off (inside the IQ2000 box)

The low flow circ pump feels extremely warm to touch.

I didn't know if each thermistor has a specific port to screw into.

If anyone has any insight please let me know. I would like to use the hot tub in these cold nights.

Hello, I guess my first question is what's a Thermistor? Sounds like something made up by the manufacture. Few questions, 1. do you have a thermal sensor in the tub wall or on the heater tube? 2. What size of heater tube do you have, how many KW? Thanks, Michael " title="Laughing" />

I think Hot Springs has made up the name for the high limit sensor and the temp sensor. The sensors are mounted on the heater asssembly. The heater size is a 6000kw. Here's a pic of the heater. I think I switched the connectors in the port tubes. I did turn the hot tub to 95 degrees and it didn't trip the high limit switch, but the temp still reads incorrect. Any insight?

It's not possible to switch the plugs because they are configured differently. One of them (most likely the control as you said) is bad.

Dan is correct. Not only is the plug different but the thread size is also different.

Michael - welcome to the forum. A Thermister is in fact just a name for the t-stat and high limit sensors. I'm not sure, but I think Thermister is the correct term now.

I second Dan's suggestion to replace the Control Thermister - part #38415. It's an inexpensive part and worth a try.

Sometimes if you don't use a spa for a long time in hot climates the circulation pump will heat the spa by friction. They can get to 108.

picking up the thermostat sensor in the morning. I'll let you knwo how it goes

got another question on the No-Fault 6000 heaters. I was curious nd took apart an old one that I had and saw that inside the center (between the 4 pipes) was very moist) there are 4 wires that connect to the other end with another black wire. Is this part supposed to be sealed so that no water or condensation gets in? If condensation gets in, would it trip the breaker? There are gaskets on both ends that should seal each tube to eliminate this....correct?

Just curious. I can post pics if needed.

I don't think moisture in there would trip the breaker. GFI's trip with current loss to ground. In that area I don't think moisture would come in contact with anything electrical unless it got to the high limit reset. Those weren't the best heaters, the idea was good to have extra elements but they did have some burning problems with the earlier ones. The newer ones for that design had a little round green sticker on it.

Good Luck