:" title="Question" /> Ok, how about this one? I have no heat. I have 0v across the heater and 110v across each leg versus ground. When I lift 1 leg off the heater, I THEN get 240v across the board output! When I hook the leg back up, I get 0v again. Additionally, with a leg lifted, i get 240V across the board output whether the thermostat is calling for heat or not!? Any ideas on there to go next?

Board relay contacts are fried.

Which Relay?

I pulled one off of the board (I think it was just friction inserted into the plated thru holes and not soldered as I didn't peel any solder joints apart upon removal). I did notice some brownish color around one of the 120v leads but upon dismemberment, found no melted plastic and contacts seem intact. So not since I'm unsure what circuit I just took the relay out of, I suppose I can jump the board there and see if anything works differently.

I attached a pic of the controller, the absent relay fite to the right of the 2 relays on the lower left of the board.

J

...

most likely the two just above the heater power connectors.

OK OK OK, I think I have solved this! The original relay that I took off must be the source of the problem! Both leads of the secondary have 120V (and 240V between them!!) and I just jumped them at the board and the heater finally shows 240V now across the heater, woo hoo! The steel wire jumper got hed hot from the current! This relay also has 0V across the promary side when the cotroller is not calling for heat and 30V DC across it when the heat IS called for!

SO now for further failure analysis. When I removed this relay from the board, i just pulled and wiggled it off. It looked like it wasnt even soldered to the board but just had leads press fit into the plated thru holes on the board!?!? Does Gecko mount components this way? With this much current passing thru the connection, I think this is unwise if they do. Upon visual examilation of the board, one of the the plated thru holes on the secondary side showed discoloration, carbon, arcing residue. This is likely the source of the failure. I plan to replace the relay on the board and solder it in to fix this!

Finally, could this have been caused by a power failure here as the timing of the failure coincides with one. Thanks all, this site is great and I'll send ALL my friends and local spa dealers here.

Jeff

I seem to have the same problem with my unit as you described on 11/23/06. Wondering if you ever pinpointed the problem? The realy you mentioned on 11/25, was that actually the problem, if so was it a plug in or solder type relay? Would appreciate your response.

Thanks Bill

" title="Idea" /> OK, well I must say THANKS to this site and Spa Babes (and YES Jen IS HOTT)... I fixed my heater problem by replacing a relay with a blown solder joint at the PWB on the Secondary (240V) side. I bought the original Zettler Relay (actually bought 15 because of minimum buys and only needed ONE so if you need some, let me know) and put it in! The plated thru hole had some missing copper during the failure so I removed some solder mask on the hot trace (very wide) on the board and added solder to better connect the relay lead to the trace. Thanks Brian, you didn't lose a controller sale, you gained a supporter and I will send EVERY person I know to you! Happy Holidays, Jeff