Originally I was getting no heat, traced it to a faulty relay. I replaced the heater relay and now I have full heat but the new updated thermostat I put in seems to have no control. The heater comes on and just keeps on going all the way 115 f until the tub limit kicks in and resets the spa. I tested the new thermo and it does not change voltage, it's at a const 6 volts. Could this new thermostat and thermister be faulty? Anything else I should look for? :" title="Question" />

Can you get me a serial number so I know what year spa we are talking about?

serial# KC241024.

Are you sure about the KC? Could it just be K?

yeah, just K works, I think the C is in there for Canada. I replaced the orig thermostat and threw it away. Wish I had kept it, so dumb!.

I guess the t-stat you installed was the electronic one part # 75087?

yes,thats the one

That is a 2nd quarter 1994.
Do you hear a click when turning the t-stat up & down?
Do you remember which number relay you replaced - sure it was the heater relay?

Hi, yes, I replaced the heater relay. It clicks on when I attach the theromastat to it, but no matter where the thermostat is at the heater stays on and no clicks. If I disconnect the thermostat from the heater relay it clicks off. Moving the thermo produces no clicks.

OK
First lets test the relay. Test DC voltage at the coil, across the 2 terminals that are by themselves, 0 & 1. Turn up & down the t-stat and see if voltage goes on & off. (the spa water must be cool)
If all OK there then test AC voltage at the other end of the relay across 2 & 6. This should be constant voltage. Then test the other 2 terminals across 4 & 8. When the coil gets voltage it tells the relay to send power from 2 & 6 over to 4 & 8. Turn up & down the t-stat as before and see if voltage goes on & off at 4 & 8. If not pull all the wires off the terminals and test continuity from 2 to 4 and 6 to 8. If you get continuity then you have a stuck relay. You can try tapping on it with the plastic end of a screwdriver and maybe un-stick it.
If we need to I can tell you where the electronic t-stat hooks up.

You could pull out the t-stat bulb from the drywell. That way you won't have to wait for the water to cool.

relay is good. how do i test thermo if functioning as it should?

If the spa water is hot pull out the t-stat bulb from the drywell. (You won't get any clicking if the t-stat senses too hot of water temp.) Turn up & down the t-stat and you should hear the clicking. You can then test the voltages at the coil and to the heater to see if voltage turns off & on.
Let me go over the t-stat hookup.

These are from the t-stat board:
P4 orange connects with the jet switch grey (using a quick wire splice connector) J2 terminal 12 on the main board.
P2 Light Blue comes from the main board J4 terminal 5.
P3 orange goes to the coil terminal 1 of the heater relay K2.

The light blue J4 terminal 6 goes to heater relay terminal 0.

Let me know

These are from the t-stat board:
P4 orange connects with the jet switch grey (using a quick wire splice connector) J2 terminal 12 on the main board.
P2 Light Blue comes from the main board J4 terminal 5.
P3 orange goes to the coil terminal 1 of the heater relay K2.
The light blue J4 terminal 6 goes to heater relay terminal 0.

I'll double check tonight, but I'm pretty sure I have:

P3 to the relay terminal 1 k2
P2 empty, light blue wire next to grey the grey was cut when the electrican spliced p4 to grey j2 wire.
P4 orange connected to spliced connector to terminal j2 on main board
Light blue from terminal J4 to heater realy terminal 0

So looking at this, Am I missing a crucial wire? I just figure p2 was left empty as thats how the electrician did it.

OK we found the problem.
The orange from P4 should be spliced in with the grey on J2 that is the last terminal on J2.
The one that goes to K2 #0 should be the light blue (J4 terminal 6) that is right next to the white.

I don't know why he cut the light blue J4 terminal 5. That has to go to P2.
Is it still connected to J4 #5? If so you can splice into that with a piece of wire and a flag connector and put it on P2. This should fix the problem.
Good Luck

man, something so simple. glad i didnt have the electrician come back and diagnose it " title="Laughing" /> . Luckily the wire is still connected most of the way. Thanks for all your help.

My pleasure - Good Luck

Thanks Pete. I got it working. Turns out there is no grey jet wire attached to the T-stat board. I moved the spliced blue wire to P2 from off of p4 and now the t-stat switches on and off as it should. Question now is why do I have nothing going to P4, is this correct for the Highlife? Another problem I have is the 3 large jets are not working, the Moto massage,the one right next to the light and the large one opposite the Moto are dead. All other jets work great and are very strong. Any ideas? Thanks.

The one that should have been spliced with the Grey jet switch wire (J2 #12) is the Orange from P4.
You definitely need that. P4 is the common terminal.
P2 should not be spliced with any other wire and should go to J4 #5.

You need to get this straight.

Attached is an electrical schematic.

Thanks for the diagram, big help. I see what you mean, so the electrician cut the blue and spliced the orange to it by mistake when he really should have spliced the orange of p4 to the grey jet wire and put the blue on p2. So all I need now is to get a wire and splice the grey and connect to p4. Would this have anything to do with the jetstreams and moto not working or is that a seperate issue altogether?

A separate issue. I think that spa has a diverter on one of the Jetstream jets. The Jetstream is the very large nozzle jets. See if you can turn the outer ring of the jet. If it is a diverter it will have 3 positions - left, middle & right. The middle position has the Jetstream jet on full.
There are also diverter handles on the top deck. Give those a try and let me know.

I tried the diverter lever on top and it has no effect on the jet streams, there's not water coming out from them.

tried all the levers and the diverter lever on top and the 3 jet settings, no joy. Are these jetstreams linked to the Moto because that things dead also.

You need to see if one of the Jetstreams is a diverter as well. You grab the outer ring of the jet and turn it.

Hello Pete, I turned the outer rings on both jet streams,nothing happened. 1 spins freeley left and right, the other has three positions turning left or right.Also if I put my hand down into the jet near the light the water is much cooler. Any ideas?

success, i spent a good hour in the tub playing with the diverter settings. After figuring out the combos i got the jetstreams working. i'll replace the moto and then all should be good. one other thing pete is the little mosiac tiles are starting to fall out,and the previous owner has lost one. do you know where i can get replacement tiles and how to reattach them? thanks for all the solid advice. " title="Laughing" /> " title="Very Happy" />

Well, with my '91 Classic I just pulled the tile out and it looks pretty good. I haven't had good sucess re-attaching the tile. It doesn't stick well. New tile would work because the mesh backing is intact, however new tile is very expensive.

Glad you got it going

Pete, do you have any pictures of the tub without the tiles, I may go that route. Thanks for all your help, you've saved me alot wasted time and money. " title="Very Happy" />

Sorry no pics. Does that spa have tile that is about 4" tall or 2"? The larger tile looks more weird then the smaller stuff when it's taken off.
Every person I have suggested this to has been happy with it off.
You may need to sand down some scratch lines they used to line up the tile at the factory.
Have Fun