I own a 2004 Blue Water Quality Spa with the Hydro-Quip Heater components. The main circuit panel has a red error light for the "Auxiliary Fuse (Optional)" and it does not heat above 49 degrees. I have turned off all power to the tub, pulled fuses from the panel to check for continuity and all checks out. On the panel there are two 25A/300V SC-25 Time Delay fuses and a standard 2A/250V 3AG-SLO-BLO fuse that all test good when checked for continuity. This optional auxiliary fuse must somehow control the heater and the Pump 2 but where is it located at and how to I check or replace it? Everything was working until it was recently moved. Does anyone have any ideas as your help would be greatly appreciated!!!!

So I find this odd that I am posting a reply to my own post, but I have learned and hopefully by sharing, I will be able to help many others. My first mistake is that I thought that all fuses are created equal and when the "pop" they are done. So when I tested each fuse for continuity, I thought it seemed logical that if there is continuity then the fuse would still be good. Unfortunately this is not a good test for the Time Delay fuses that are used with hot tubs and swimming pool pumps. Someone makes a specific time delay fuse and relay testing piece of equiptment but it seemed far too expensive for this one time fuse test.

Here was my work around:
I turned the power off to the tub by turning off the circuit breaker
I pulled both of the time delay fuses and swapped them in the tub's panel as they were both the same identical fuse and numbers
I turned the power back on to find the aux fuse light went out and the aux pump worked but the main pump fuse light was now on
I visited a local electronic's supply warehouse and bought new fuses (they come in a 2 pack)
I installed both new fuses and turned the power back on
Now there are no fuse warning lights showing, both pumps and the heater now work!

Again, hopefully this can help anyone else who may ever need to troubleshoot heating and/or Time Delay fuse issues!

Happy hot tubbing!!!

Okay so perhaps I spoke too soon and still am in need of some help. I am located in Iowa and it is cold outside this time of year.
After I replaced the time delay fuses, it seemed that everything was working correctly, but I am finding that the temperature only increases when running with both pumps on high. I read a ton of other similar posts and have tried much of the same troubleshooting. I am trying to post some photos and hope this works...
Here is what I am finding:
The heater element reads 235V when running the pumps on high or low and since it the water temperature increases when running on high, I would like to think the heater element is okay. By continually turning the pumps back to high I have gotten the temperature up to 84 degrees so far. If I turn the thermostat display down below that point, then the tub will return to an idle state and all is quiet. I have removed the filter and the same happens, so it seems the flow is adequate. The pressure switch (the round grey thing with the flat adjustment-I have not turned this) measures continuity when the pump is running both on high and low speeds-which I understand that it is opening and closing to tell the heater there is flow.
I do not know if this tub has a high limit switch and/or where it would be located or how to test it? Is there a picture of what it looks like as that may help? Could that even be my issue or have I overlooked something else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Your high limit sensor is the small black two-wire plug on the bottom right of the board. If it were having problems you'd get a 'HL' error or 3 flashing dots. What's the continuity reading on your heater?

Oh, so that is what those three red dots mean!!! I seen those yesterday but had no idea what they meant. Since I didnt know, I just turned off power to the tub, waited about 30 secs then turned it back on and they went away. I had not seen them on prior and they have not came back yet. Should they?

I just turned power off now so I could measure continuity between the two poles for the heater and the digital multi-meter read 1.563. It did not go to an infinity reading. Is there a high and low side to the heating element as it warms the tub when the pumps are running? I only found those two poles to test so perhaps the heater has a high and low mode by varying the voltage to it?

No, the heater works at the same resistance all the time, though it should be more like 10-15 ohms. Since you have the dots, I'll assume that measurement you got had a fuzzy connection. You got some resistance and the heater worked until you had the error, presumably.

See how far it heats up. High limit sensors sometimes go permanently bad, or sometimes they start tripping at say 90 degrees instead their original set temp. You might also have a different issue, though. The three dots are a generic error code that can mean any number of things. The fact that they disappeared after you reset the tub makes it likely to be a HL, but you'll have to watch and see.

Okay...so a slight delay on my part here as the work thing had to happen... If I keep turning the pumps on high, they will run for a predetermined amount of time, which I think is like 20 minutes or so. During this on/off/on cycling I have been able to bring the tub up to 99 degrees but have not been able to break 100 even though I have the temp setting turned all the way to max 104. Last night I had it up to 98, then went to bed and awoke to a 94 degree tub and the main pump running on low and not adding or maintaining heat again. The three dots have not returned to the display board yet either.

And is the "Heater On" light lit? Check the continuity one more time across the heater terminals with the power off. If the heater light is on and you're losing heat, it's a bad element. You may just be getting an increase in temp from the heat of the motors.

I apologize for my lack of electrician experience as I think I had the wrong setting last time checking for continuity. This time I used the range designated with the upside down horseshoe looking emblem on the 20K range with the power to the tub off. The multimeter was reading 12.63.

When the pump is running at low speed the heater light is illuminated but it does not maintain temp. When I turn the pumps to high, the water temp will increase and the heater tube definitely gets hot to the touch too. How much heat do those motors really make?

Do I just replace the heater element? Where can I get one and what do they cost?

Just to ask as I do not know and this tub did not come with an owner's manual... is there an economy/normal mode settings for summer/winter use? If so how do I change it?
The lady at my local pool supply warehouse asked if there is a flow control that could be bad?
If the heater heats at full speed but not at low, could the flow control reading create the issues that I am experiencing?

Thank you greatly for all of your help too!!!

Looks like the heater is good. How's your filter?

You said earlier that the pressure switch reads closed in low and high speeds, is that right? That's what tells the heater you've got enough water flow to turn on. It is possible for the pressure to be high but the flow to be restricted. For instance, if you closed a valve on the opposite side of the heater from the pump you'd get a build up in pressure with little flow. That would lead the heater to overheat causing a high limit error.

So when you say on low the light is on but it doesn't maintain temp, does the light go on and off or does it stay on as far as you know? Are you still getting 3 dots?

The motors put out enough heat that there are spas that use just the heat from the motor to warm up, but it takes ages and requires a sleeve over the motor that collects the heat. Since you're getting the heat on light and the element is reading within range, this theory is out the window.

As for economy mode, it's often programmable in Hydroquip systems through the programming menu. If it's there, you'll get options like EC ON and EC DU. Those stand for economy on (the time it comes on during the day) and duration. Some have more than one time slot you can program.

With the voltage change when the tub is running vs idle, I do believe the pressure switch is opening correctly. I have made sure that all of the gate valves and all of the jets are in the open position. I installed a brand new filter just trying to eliminate all of the possibilities.
I do not fully understand all of the complications of the control panel itself but have enclosed a photo as well. I do not see anything that would indicate an Economy Mode being on but the tub is new enough to think in theory that it may have one?
I turned the thermostat to 104 and the pumps on, the thermometer would wait a few seconds then return to reading what the tub temp actually is (99). The only indicator lights at this time are the pump 1 and 2, and the heater. However if I then press the up temp button, the thermometer returns back to the 104 and then all the dots come on.
The heater on light will stay lit if the tub is below the temp set and the pump is on, but will go out and the pump will stop as son as the thermostat is turned below the tub temp.
I found Hydro-Quip's website but they do not have much there in a form of an owner's manual or directions for this control.

" title="Laughing" /> Sorry, I meant the "heater on" light on the pack itself, not on the topside. The light on the pack is wired directly to the heater element and is a definite indicator of proper power to the element. If the dots appear this light should be off, though the heat light up top will stay on. With this model you don't have an economy mode option. Without turning the jets on high, set the temp up to 104. The pump should come on by itself at low speed, the heat light up top should be on, and you should get either the three dot error OR the heater on light on the pack should come on. What actually happens?

Okay...so perhaps I am even more confused... Tub is at 100 and at idle when I turn the temp below that. I turn the temp up to 104 and the pump starts on low, the display panel shows heater on and so does the pack. I then turn the temp back down, the display shows the heater of and the pump turns off. I am really confused here because the heater light on the pack stays on? I waited 5 minutes with tub at idle and the pack light still shows heater on but no dots on the control display topside.

This is confusing, but we'll pin it down yet.

If the light on the pack stays on without the water moving, you should start to hear some fizzing and bubbling inside the heater, followed quickly by a high limit error. This should all happen within a minute. Be sure the light is really on and that the lens isn't just picking up and reflecting sunlight.

Confusing indeed! I also thought that the sun could be creating the illusion of the heater light being on, so I opened the access door just a crack and could see it glowing in the darkness. When the pumps are off it is fairly quiet but I do not hear any fizzing or bubbling? Then even after the 5 minutes had passed, I did not see the three lights return to indicate the high limit

I greatly appreciate all of your excellent help and guidance!!!

The heater light is on 5 minutes without any circulation? Is the tube getting hot? And you only have the two big pumps on this thing, right? No circ pump dedicated to the heater?

Correct. The two big pumps underneath look to be the same pump (size and model). I was using the tub just a little bit ago and the pumps turned off after their cycle and I just watched to see what was happening. Previously when the pumps turned off, I went to the access door to see if the heater light was staying on or not. Since I was in the tub this time, I just watched the display panel. It takes about a minute or two the the three lights under the temp blink 3 or 4 times then are gone. Previously I must not have been looking in the right spot at the right time. You had said these three lights can have many meanings but what if they don't stay on? After seeing the lights blink, I then got out and looked into the access door and the pack heater light was still on as well.

Alright, if the light circled in red here: heater light.JPG ...is on and connected to the two heater terminals here: heater light 2.JPG And the heater reads ~12 ohms and there is no water movement, the tube should AT LEAST be getting too hot to touch. Is it not?

Yes that heater light is on as circled, and connected and the tube is getting hot. Are these tubes insulated or double walled? How hot should "hot" be?
I am not feeling my skin melt against it but it is definitely hotter than if there was no heat? But the heater element is in the center of the tube surrounded by water so 90 or 100 degree water would reduce the effects?
Today I also did finally get a response from a Pierre at Hydro-Quip who claims to be a Service-Repair Manager. I explained everything that we have done so far as well as all of the testing too, but he stated that he thinks it is the pressure switch that is bad? He did not seem to be as patient or as helpful as you because it just felt like he wanted to sell me a part and get me off the line. But he did send me a basic owner's manual so I can at least see how to access and change the maintence filter cycles.
Do I try to turn that adjustment knob on the pressure switch counter clockwise so less pressure is required or leave it be as when checking continuity across it with pumps running vs stopped the meter shows the difference in the switch's position?

The heater staying on would mean a stuck relay on the board. If the pressure switch was the problem you'd get an FLC error (one of the 'three dot' errors, but it doesn't just go away) instead of the heater staying on, since the logic on board would know that the pump was no longer on low. And you've already checked your pressure switch, but just to double check: with the meter in ohm mode (same as for the heater) the switch should read 0.0 when the pump is on low or high, and OL when off.

In the end I think you've just got a bad board. Like I said, a relay has to be getting stuck to keep the heater light on when the tub is idle. The only other option would be that the low speed pump windings were failing AND the pressure switch was always closed, neither of which are the case.

How old is the pack?

The sticker on the top of the pack housing shows the pack was manufactured 11.26.03
How expensive is the board and where is a good place to get one? Would a whole replacement pack be a better option?

Since the tub is an '04, you might still be covered under warranty. A lot of tubs with hydroquip equipment will warranty the pack for five years. Still got your purchase info?

Also the pressure switch reads 0.0 when the pump is running high or low when on the 20K scale. When everything stops and goes to idle the meter reads 4.13. So there is a definite change in the position of the switch.
I do not have the purchase info but I could always call that Pierre back to see if he would replace it?

Well..I just got off the phone with Pierre and just as "useful" as before. He was quick to point out that the tub manufacturer would have the warranty where Hydro-Quip does not. He would love to sell me a brand new board for $380 or have me send mine in for service. With the turn around time, I would have to make sure that every bit of water was out as the temps here forecasted in the teens. I already found a board online at: http://www.cheappoolproducts.com/Printe... oduct.html by the photo it looks to be the same but is there a cheaper source? Once replaced do I still send my board in for repair so I would always have a spare? Again I greatly appreciate EVERYTHING!!!! You truly rock!!!

My pleasure. Sorry this hasn't been as straightforward as we'd have liked.

You shouldn't get any resistance at all on the pressure switch when the pump is off. Turn the adjustment on top of the switch clockwise until it remains at OL when you test it with the pump off. Then test with the pump on to make sure it still goes to 0.0.

He's right, Hydro Quip does warranty through the manufacturer, which in turn warrants through the dealer to the consumer. You'll have to get in touch with either the manuf or the dealer. But that's if it turns out to be the board. Let's see what calibrating the pressure switch does.

Thank you! Now before I turn anything, please help me understand? How sensitive is this knob? Should the multi-meter stay on the 20K range or reduced? How much adjustment will reflecton the meter if this switch is a on/off switch?

The switch should be on/off, so you should get either 0.0 with the pump running or OL with the pump off. Any range setting should be fine, or you can use the plain continuity 'beep' setting.

The knob just adjusts the amount of pressure required to close the switch, going from 1 to about 5 psi. At the lower end (1 psi), the weight of the water in the tub will close the switch even when the pump is off. At the higher end (5 psi) the pump doesn't generate enough pressure on low speed to close the switch. You want it set as high as possible. So, starting with the pump on low and the switch set in the low end, slowly adjust counter clockwise until the setting is too high for the pump to close. Then back off about 1/4 turn so that it closes again.

That makes perfect sense and it is now adjusted. Opens when pump is on low and high, closed when off... only took about 1/8 turn to be where the meter responded. But even after I turn the temp way down and everything goes to idle the heater pack "on" light is still on. Still thinking stuck relay and replace the board?

Looks like it to me, though it is still baffling to me that the heater is not getting boiling hot from sitting still like that.

Sounds like the board is the brain that is the mastermind of all of my confusion! Is there a cheaper place to purchase?

I don't see any less expensive than $226.

that is the same price I found but I am trying to compare a photo to the real thing... is there a difference in the board's appearance between the 120 and 220 models as I have to make sure to get the 220

I'd email them the info from your board just to be sure.