i have an old aqualine em103. cat#26-2150. can heat tub to 104 in no time,when pump is just circulating. with pump on,hi or lo,element turns off. any thoughts where 2 start. it is a 220volt pack

Sounds like it's working good

Hi Torrezz,
If the system is set up for a 30 amp maximum load, the the controller
must disable the element to accomodate the amperage draw.
Element at 5.0 KW is roughly 25 amps.

thanx for input hotwater. what if i'm on 50 amp,which i am

Hi Torrezz, The Brett Aqualine heaters came in 110v operation setup, and 220v models. If there is not a "conversion toggle switch" where you wire up the unit or an "amp plug" style pigtail to configure a 220v heater feed, then you may have a 110v unit. At a glance, the 220v applications will have a "Contactor" ( http://spapartsnet.com/Electrical-Parts... 6_1_1.html ) If you feed the heater line#2 of a 220v circuit instead of a neutral, then it will heat at a capacity of 5.5-6 KW. However, the componants involved such as the thermostat, high limit switch, and pressure switch, are not designed to carry the amperage of a 220v load. ( Most switches are 20 amp rated ) It will work, but you will start to wear out parts, and or see wire connections fail. Above all of this, Safety is the concern. There has to be a "Line Side GFCI" ( Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter ) with a 220v application. If you have an intergral 110v GFCI within the pack, it won't be sufficient. This either helped, or confused the snot out of the situation. ( My head is spinning) " title="Rolling Eyes" /> Let me know

inhotwater, ok, your info did both. when we got tub home line #2 was on nuetral,industrial electrician from my plant said tub was wired wrong,he put #2 hot and nuetral,nuetral. tub was wired 220v from location it was moved.
guess more pertenant ? would be should element cook on all speeds as long as water temp has'nt met t-stat setting?
once again,thanx for sharing your knowledge/experience

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