I have a problem with my Hot Springs Grandee mfg in 2002. no heat even though the indicator on the control circuit is lit saying heater on. The sensors read approx 15k ohms, and I’m getting 240 Vac. The circulator pump is running, and I tried running without filters just in case that was a problem. I don’t seem to have any current draw at all on the black wire. I just want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I spend a couple hundred bucks for a new heater. Oh yeah, the warranty ran out in October.

your present heater will have a reset button on it. You've probably tried the reset. If the heater does not have continuity, change it out.

yes, i have tried the reset. I forgot to mention that. Thank you though.

No "current draw" on the black wire?

Does that mean you have current draw on the white?

Because that would be strange...

Have you ohm'd out the heater?

What does the heater read?

No, i dont have any current draw on the white wire. I was just saying that because the black is the "hi" wire. I didn't measure the element. what should it read?

You can take Amp (current) readings from either wire, hot or common. If your spa is 220v, they're both hot, or "line." Even on 110v volt heaters, the neutral carries the same amp draw as the hot line.

The heater should OHM out between 9-11 OHM's.

Good luck!

thanks, i'll check later.

ok, heater reads 0 ohms. I'm gonna guess thats no good.

Zero, or Open Line (O/L)? Zero OHM's (no resistance), and we'd have fireworks every time it was energized " title="Twisted Evil" /> Try mashing and wiggling that little button as hard as you can- peel the plastic tape back to press the button directly. If that doesn't get it, time for a new heater.

you are correct sir! my mistake, open. i have tried the reset to no avail.

Wow... Im having just about the exact same problem.
Except I have 10 ohms across the black and white leads going to the heater.

I have 115v from the white post on the heater relay board to the ground
and 0v from the black post on the heater relay board to the ground.

I have 115 v on both leads coming into the heater relay board.

Can I buy just that first relay or do I need to replace the whole board?

Thanks in advance.
Matt

What's the voltage of the tub? Is it hard wired with two breakers, of a single 20 amp GFCI?

Also, what's the serial number?

Its a 220v Tiger River Bengal Series M

Its hard wired with two breakers... One is 20amp and the other 30amp.

I checked both of the 30 amp leads going to the small heater relay board and Im getting 120v out of both of those to the ground.

Not sure on the serial #

I have attached a pic of the part in question.

I can get the serial# if necessary.

Have you tested power at the breakers? Measure across the poles, not one at a time to ground " title="Smile" />

I have not checked the power at the breakers
but I have checked the wires that come from the breakers into the board and they are good there.

I will check across both posts that go to the heater today for 220v
Im guessing Ill only have the 110 from the white

Do you know if you can buy just hte relays seperate?

No need to check the breakers if you're getting 240v at the board. Please note, that's not 120v at each leg, but 240 accorss the relays.

While you might need relays, it's just as likely a bad heater breaker, thus your first step is to verify proper volatge from the breaker.

What's the serial number?

Thanks for the response.
Serial# is M2E 1889

I just checked and I have 237 volts across the two wires coming off the 30amp breaker.

Matt

Sounds like you need a new heater PCB, or, if you can find 'em, have the time, and are pretty good with a soldering iron, new relays.

Good luck!!

Thanks again for your help.
I have it on order.
We will see how difficult it is to replace.

" title="Very Happy" /> Thanks everyone for your help. After replacing the heater, all is back to normal.