| Starting out: If you are purchasing a complete pack with pump (s) much of the positioning has been done for you. If you've purchased a controller heater only you can use this sheet as a guide for proper install to your existing equipment. The first thing to remember is, as long as a few conditions are met, you are not bound to the setup of the pump, controller, etc, as it is received. The pump can face right or left. It does not have to live on the base it is shipped with. As long as the heater is on the DISCHARGE side of the pump you can locate the pump however you like (The exception is the Balboa systems with M-7 Technology. These systems can be installed on the suction side of the pump. ). We ship the product on the base to stabilize it in shipping. You dont have to use the base if it makes the product too tall, too wide or too deep. Identify the suction, return and blower lines on your spa. 
The suction line on your spa comes from the skimmer (or skim filter) and the drain fitting" located in the footwell of your spa. These are usually teed together into one line that enters the suction port of the pump. The suction inlet of your pump is the is the connection located at the very front in the center or eye of the pump. See the graphic above. NOTE if you are replumbing this line, be sure to use 2 inch pipe if possible, for maximum flow! The return lines on your spa go back to the jets. From the top of the pump the water will discharge and pass through the heater, possibly a filter and then return to the spa via the jets. Some filters may be suction type and would take the place of the skimmer above. A pressure filter would be located as veiwed above. The blower line will obviously lead to the air injector manifold in the seats or it may be a single pipe that disappears into the shell itself. It is there only to carry air from the blower to the air injector line of the spa, and is not generally considered part of the "circualtion system."
For two pump systems, The two speed pump is your Primary pump and needs to plumb to the controller. The 2and pump is your booster pump and does not not plumb thru the heater system.
For systems with 24 hour circ pumps, This pump performs the heating and filtration tasks while the 2 and 3 rd pumps are boosters only. Plumbing Glue Basics:
Clean the parts to be glued with clear PVC cleaner. Apply PVC Glue, a full dauber wide, with full coverage; to the male pipe and the female fitting. Insert the pipe fully with a slight twisting motion. Union Fittings:
Unions are the screw on connecting fittings you most likely have on your old pump and possibly your heater. New unions are included with the pack but you may find you dont need them. If your old pump unions fit the pump, which many do, you dont have to change them, just screw them onto your new pump. If you happen to have a spa that is presently hard plumbed, or with unions that dont fit, youll have the new ones to plumb in. They make life easy, even for non plumbers! The pipe simply glues into the tail piece and then the nut tightens down over the connection on the pump. An o-ring inside the tail piece seals against the pump or heater manifolds as you screw down the nut. Be sure you glue your pipe into the union with the nut in place or youll be cutting it apart to get it on! No glue, silicone, joint compound or teflon tape is required on the male threads of the pump fitting.
The o-rings are lightly pre-lubricated at the factory. If you like, it never hurts to add a little more, but it probably isnt required. Unions should thread on easily once the tail piece lines up to the receiving part properly. Try snug hand tight first. You may find it is enough. If you need a little more, turn VERY gingerly with channel locks. It shouldnt take much. HINTif you are using the old unions, try replacing the o-rings with the ones from the new unions! There are also union fittings on the heater which make plumbing from the pump to the heater and then to the jets and easy task. Hooking up Pump and Heater:
Plumb the suction port of the pump to the suction line from the spa. The pump can be moved or turned however it works. Plumb the discharge of the pump to the heater manifold on top of the controller. Plumb the discharge of the heater to the pipe that goes back to the jets. This line may go through the filter first. NOTEit is very important to plumb the heater on the pressure (discharge) side, the pressure switch will not activate the heater if plumbed on the suction side. It is recommended to use shutoff valves on both sides of the pump and heater so it can be serviced even with water in the spa. When finished plumbing, plug pump cord into the receptacle on the side of the controller. If your new controls is a Balboa System, it CAN be plumbed to the suction side of the pump Blower:
Install the blower to the blower pipe WITHOUT PVC GLUE (the fumes can ignite and explode inside your blower pipe). Just jam it on the pipe. If it tends to blow off, a set screw can be used to keep it on the pipe. It is essential to have a check valve or Hartford loop for the blower. Without the check valve, the blower can flood and be an electrical hazard. Plug blower cord into controller receptacle on right side of the controller. Spa Side Controls, (if purchased):
Will have to be mounted to the spa shell or surrounding area. A template is provided for hole cutting. If you received the tecmark topside, the thermostat sensor fits behind the heater manifold in the shielded holder. The plug goes into the receptacle on the right side of spa controller/heater. The rocker switch on the side needs to be in the TDI position for Tri Delta or TecMarc Spa side controls and LGI or Pat for Len gordon or Spa Patrol versions. Digital systems come with internal temp sensors. There are various ways to deal with the various sensors. If you need help.. give us a call. Air Buttons:
May be installed on the shell itself using a hole saw or installed into the cabinet or a surrounding area. Be sure to check behind the hole for obstructions before drilling! Electrical Requirements and Instructions:
Always check with your local authorities regarding electrical codes in your area. Some areas require electrical professionals to install some or all of the wiring for hot tubs. Be sure you are in compliance with local laws. Any damage caused by improper wiring will be apparant and will not be covered under the manufacturer warranty. BE SURE IT IS CORRECT! The 120 volt Spa Pack
The power cord must be plugged into a 20amp dedicated 120 volt outlet. This means that the spa is the only circuit on the breaker, therefore, it is dedicated. Branch circuits are not acceptable because they don't provide enough current for the spa to run properly. This causes premature relay failure and breaker tripping. The outlet Cord or breaker MUST have a GFI protection device. There is NO GFCI on the system! 240 Electrical
All 240 volt controllers require a 4 wire GFCI protected service with : 2 hots, neutral and ground. Be certain wire sizes from main breaker to spa breaker are of the proper size for the length of the run! When making connections on the control terminal strip make sure all wires are secure and tightly fastened. *The NEC now requires GFCI breaker protection on all spa and hot tub circuits wired 240 volts.
Check your local requirements! 
30amp 240 volt connections (minimum wire size #10)
Some systems allow this set up BE sure yours control supports it! Follow instructions in owners manual. Do NOT change the amp toggles from 30 to 50amps. At the 30amp setting the heater will heat at 240 volts but only with the low speed pump.
50 amp Conversion (minimum wire size #8)
Same as above but switch theinternal toggle to 50 amp (if present). The only function of the toggle switch is to allow the heater to heat with the high speed pump. This can only be done with a 50 amp service.
Air tube connections
Connect your air tubes from the buttons on your spa side to the nipples on the right side. We get many calls with the frequently asked question: "But which air tube goes on what switch?" Funny thing.. you arent going to hurt a thing if you just hook it up and press a button to see what turns on BUT... for all the unadventurous out there, From top to bottom. Pump, Blower Light. If you have a spa side control
The rocker switch on the side of the contol.. the one that has the TDI LGPAT tag on it. This switch needs to be in the TDI position If you have a TecMark or Tri Delta spaside control. If your spa side is a Len Gordon or Spa Patrol Brand you rock the switch to that position.
If you do not have a spaside control it doesn't matter which position the switch is in. Digital system Topsides
These connect to the front of the controller with either a ribbon cable or phone jack type connection. Just plug in! Start up Procedures After the spa is filled to the normal water level, midpoint on the skimmer, you are now ready to start it up! For mechanical air operated systems , turn all thermostats to the LOWEST position before starting! Also check pressure filter lids or canisters to be sure they are securely closed, opening any air bleedoff valves. OPEN shut off VALVES, if installed. Check for snugness of all unions. Switch the rocker switch on the front of the controller to time clock. Pull up a few trippers and rotate the time clock CLOCKWISE until the low speed pump comes on. It may take a few moments to prime. When you can visually VERIFY consistant flow in the spa from the jets, you can turn up the thermostat for the heater. The heater contactor will engage and the heat light should come on. You can now try the jet button for high speed pump and check for proper blower operation if installed. For Digital Systems, The startup sequence is programmed Do not interrupt the boot up process! Make sure all valves are open and pressure lids securely closed. Prime pumps first (before energizing) by loosening the suction union on the pump to let air escape and water run. . Congratulations! You've just installed your new spa pack!
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Spa Babes Certificate of Completion certifying your SPA BABE status! Troubleshooting Flow problems:
Are your valves open? If so, air locks can occur when the spa has been empty during your installation. If you have no flow, but, the pump is running, turn it off and loosen the union fitting on the suction side of the pump. If air hisses out, let it until water starts to come out, tighten the unions back up and turn the pump back on. Heater problems:
Is the heater plumbed to the pressure side of the pump? NO Flow = NO Heat! Dont even try to turn on your heater unless the pump is pumping! 120 volt spa packs heat at an approximate rate of 1.5 to 2 degrees per hour. A 24 hour initial heat up is common for 120 volt setups. Set the rocker switch on the front of control panel for temperature and turn the thermostat to the maximum (maximum temperature is 104 degrees). Let it run and it will cycle off once it reaches the temperature to maintain. 240 volt spa packs heat approximately 4 to 6 degrees an hour. It is still recommended for initial heat up to switch the rocker switch to temperature so it will heat up to the maximum. Then if desired, the rocker can be set back to time clock and allowed to run for the time it will take to reach the temperature you would like to use. You can also, simply maintain a temperature by setting the rocker to the temperature and the heater and low pump will cycle off and on as needed to maintain the desired setting.
NEED MORE HELP? We want to know if youre having trouble. Please call toll free for assistance! Spa Babes, Inc. 1-866-364-9681
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