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Replumbing Your Spa

Spa Babes Inc
Copyright 2003 all rights reserved

Materials and tools youll want on hand

PVC cutters or hacksaw
PVC glue (we recommend pool tite or rain and shine)
PVC clear cleaner (do not use purple primer, it softens flex pipe too much)
3-M M-5200  Marine sealant (for Jet flanges, suction flanges or any thru-wall fitting that will be underwater.)
17 inch channel locks
Clean Rags and paper towels.
Power drill with hole saws hole saw sizes listed below.
Spa plumbing items for the job
  
If you are re-plumbing your entire spa you will need to order the the following items for your Spa Re-plumbing Kit.  When received, Lay them out with like parts together.

1. WaterWay Poly Jet bodies: These are in 2 parts the flange and the back

2. WaterWay Jet inserts: These will provide the water/air  actiondo not install these until all other plumbing is complete.

3. Waterway Jet Wrench:  This is the tool you use to hold onto the jet flange while the back is tightened.

4. Cluster jet bodies and inserts (if ordered)

5. Spa suctions or skimmers

6. One or more water manifolds: 1.5 or 2 inch manifold with spokes for ½ inch pipe.

7.  One or more air manifolds, 1 inch manifold that plumbs to the air control.

8. Air control (s) Flange mounted air valves to allow for air draw to the jets.

9. Plugs for your extra ports in your air and water manifolds

10. PVC caps and plugs for manifold ends (some of these are very small)

11.Clear vinyl tube 3/8ths inch, for connection from the barbed air connector on each jet to a barb on the air manifold.

12. PVC flex pipe, ½ inch to connect from the water port on each jet to a port on the water manifold.

13. 1.5 or 2 inch flex pipe for connection from equipment discharge to water manifold and suction to pump. (Optional)

14. 1.5 or 2 inch ball valves for isolation of equipment (Optional)

Spa Plumbing
  

Drilling holes

  

Plan your holes! Look on both sides of the spa before drilling. You need a flat surface on BOTH sides. Mark the center point with magic marker. Drilling into an air channel or a ridge is a bad mistake you want to avoid! You need the spots you choose to allow the jet body to snug up to the wall on both sides. If you arent accustomed to using a hole saw this size on your drill make sure you HOLD ON TO IT.  I Always used the handle on my ½ inch drill when drilling jet holes, and held on to it tight. It can wrench the heck out of your arm. Drill your pilot hole and keep your rpms up as the hole saw approaches the spa shell.  Control the force you put on it and let the saw do the work your job is to apply gentle pressure and hold the drill steady. Wallow slightly. This will make the core easier to remove. Remove cores after each hole.

If your spa shell has an inch or so of blown on foam it can be removed after drilling your hole, if youre pretty sure there will be no surprises under the foam.  The easiest way to do this is with the hole saw you used to drill the hole.  If you put the hole saw pilot bit on the edge of the hole and make a circular motion around the hole with the drillthe hole saw will chew up the foam on the back Use Finesse. You dont want it to mar the fiberglass.  Clean the fiberglass with pvc cleaner before you install the jet body.

Installing the jet body

  

Put a bead of M-5200 on the flange and insert it into the hole. The jet back will thread onto the flange. The jet wrench will hold the flange in place while you turn the jet back into the threads. You can put a bead of the M-5200 on the jet back as well. Snug the two pieces together without over tightening. Wipe off any excess M-5200 on the inside of the shell, and smooth down the bead oozing out around the jet back. The jet back should be installed so that the air barb is pointing up and the water port pointing down. If you are doing clusters they may be cocked somewhat without adverse effect.

Installing suction fittings

  

The suction fitting installs the same way as the jets, M-5200 on the flange and on the nut of the back. Be sure you have planned at least two suction fittings per pump. Skimmers need to be installed with water levels in mind. The water level is marked on most skimmers. Make sure your hole is below this line with the skimmer assembled.

Installing air controls

  

Be sure you know what is on the underside of the spa flange before you drill your hole!
Plan the location of your air controls so that they are positioned between the banks of jets you intend to operate. The air manifold will plumb right to the air control. You will glue it into place. Cap off the end. Air controls do not need to be sealed to the shell as they are located above water level. Each port on the air manifold will connect to the air barb on the back of each jet. Glue the male parts only and push the vinyl tube onto it as far as you can.

The Water Manifold

  

The water manifold will plumb to the discharge side of your spa equipment. You will plumb into it with either 1.5 or 2 inch pipe. Several manifolds can be plumbed together if desired, they are designed for multiple connections. The last manifold in line will need a cap on the final end. If you are plumbing banks of jets in certain areas, you can plumb to that area with 2 inch flex and use a 2inch by 6 port manifold under that area...then plumb to the next bank with 2 inch with another manifold in that location. This saves on the amount of 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch flex you need for the overall job. It is also cleaner looking than having all of your manifolds together with long runs of 1/2inch or 3/4 inch flex.

The ½ inch flex pipe needs to glue into each port and into each jet.  Clean first to prep the surface then apply the glue a full dauber wide on the male pipe. Insert the pipe with a slight twist into each port. Then run your pipe to each jet where you will glue the pipe in each water port on the jet, using the same method. You want to leave a comfortable amount of slack between the manifold and each jet, without being sloppy.

Its best to wait at least 24 hours if possible, after plumbing your spa before putting it under pressure.

Installing the inserts

  

The poly jet inserts are interchangeable from jet to jet. They just thread in and do not need any type sealant or thread compound. Storm jet inserts twist lock in. Save this for the very last. Many jet inserts are adjustable which means they can be turned off... be sure they are in an open position before turning on your pump.

Hole saw sizes

  

 

                              
Poly Jet2 5/8
Ozone/cluster1 inch
Mini Storm2 3/16
Standard Mini 1 ¾
Hi flow Suction 2 3/8ths
Strip Skimmer2 3/8ths
Top load filter6 7/8ths
Light 3 2 5/8ths
  

Confused or need help? Call us! 866 364-9681  or 813 235 4574

Note: Prices and Specifications subject to change without notice
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